In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
The next day (the 7th) we entered the Straits of Bonifacio at four P.M.,
where the weather was fine but cold; passing Garibaldi’s house in
Caprera, a small white building, Corsica, and Sardinia; then the “passage
of the Bear,” so called from there being a figure formed by nature at the
summit of the lofty rocks somewhat like a bear. The scenery of Corsica
and Sardinia seems very desolate and rocky. Monday morning, Italy—fine
and warm. Tuesday, 9th, at ten P.M., came to Messina; saw nothing.
Half-past five next morning we started. Wednesday, very rough all day;
only four at dinner; awful night; rounded Cape Matapan at eleven P.M.
Wind, which was before in our teeth, then in our favour; impossible to
sleep from cries of the sick and continuous smashing of crockery.
_Thursday, 11th._—Splendid day, fair wind; reached the Piræus (port of
Athens) in a lovely sun; water blue, smooth, and clear. Unable to go to
the Acropolis, as our captain said we might start at any moment (you
see it well in the distance). I saw the railway opened. The Queen was
present; she is pretty, and very gracious. Left same day at five P.M.;
awful night.
_March 12th._—Very fine, fair wind. Saw the supposed site of ancient
Troy. Supposed tombs of Hector and Achilles two large tumuli. Lovely
scenery down Dardanelles. Stopped an hour at Gallipoli.
_March 13th._—Arrived at Constantinople at seven A.M. Went to Hôtel
de Byzance—much better than Misseri’s; to the bazaar—hot, noisy, and
interesting. I had a Turkish bath; much better than the Persian ones.
They give you clogs to keep your feet from the hot floors, and wicker
cages with couches in them to smoke your hubble-bubble and drink your
coffee in, after the bath.
_Monday, 15th._—Left Constantinople by the French boat for Trebizonde.
_March 20th._—Reached Trebizonde; breakfasted with Mr. G. Palgrave, our
well-known consul, and his wife; started with the courier for Erzeroum at
seven the same evening.
The first few stages were muddy and uneventful; we soon came to snowy
passes; here my eyes got swollen, and I could barely follow the courier.
When we reached Erzeroum (23rd), after having been several times stopped
by snow, and once nearly lost in it, I was led into the house of Mr.
Taylor, our consul. I could just see a dim form and hear a kind voice.
_March 24th._—Next morning I could not open my eyes, they were so
swollen. The tatar who came with me is in the same state. This is caused
by the snow; my head is also swollen, and my face all swollen and puffy.
The Persian chupper (or post) was to start in the afternoon, and I
decided to go on, but when I found that after leeching my eyelids they
were still closed, I was only too glad to accept Mr. Taylor’s kind
invitation to stop. I was a prisoner to the house for five days, and at
the end of that time I could open my eyes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account