In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
My horse fell four times, and rolled me in the mud, for I could not help
myself. We got into the boat which was to take us to Enzelli (or the
steamer—I forget which), and then I went off into a series of faints.
Now, as a man can’t sham faints, I suppose the Colonel came to the
conclusion that I was really ill. Anyhow, he was most kind to me; and as
he went on with us as far as Lenkoran, on the Caspian, both he and Sir A.
Kemball were lavish in kindness and attention.
I was very wretched indeed, for the spurt being over, I utterly broke
down, and I fear I proved a wretched fellow-traveller to Sir A. Kemball,
with whom I went as far as Petersburg. Of the Caspian journey I remember
nothing. I had a week’s rest in my berth, during which I lived on wine
and broth, only moving when I was obliged, or when we changed steamers.
When we got to Moscow we went to the Grand Opera and saw a _Russian_
patriotic opera, called ‘A Life for the Czar.’ The music was pretty, the
dresses interesting. It was well played and well sung by Russian singers.
Another night we saw ‘La Muette di Portici’ (Masaniello) in Italian; and
the third time we went, a grand ballet in five acts, that lasted four
hours—oh! _and I had a cricked neck at the time_.
From Moscow to Petersburg is a run of twenty-four hours in a straight
line, for when the railway was about to be constructed the then Emperor
Nicholas, having the plans placed before him, took a pen, and, drawing
with a ruler a straight line between the two places, indicated the
route he wished, with a smile. At enormous expense every difficulty was
surmounted, and the _direct_ route was made. It is literally from Moscow
to Petersburg, and no large town is touched. This is the _story_; the map
says _nearly_ a straight line.
I went home direct by rail from Petersburg, getting to Brighton November
1st, 1868, was in bed three weeks, and an invalid for three months.
However, I got the balance of my sick leave cancelled, and came back to
my duties before it was over.
On March 5th, 1869, I again set out for Persia, _viâ_ Marseilles, leaving
London at a quarter to eight A.M. I got to Paris at six P.M., took a
cab for the Lyons station, caught the mail which left at a quarter past
seven P.M., and arrived in Marseilles on the 6th at noon. Being very
tired, I went on board at once, and succeeded in getting a state-room
all to myself; slept till four. At five P.M. we started in a tremendous
sea, dead-lights up, and the violin (planks fixed with cords to prevent
the table equipage leaving the table) at dinner. The steamer was one of
the Messageries Maritimes, the _Illysse_, screw, two hundred and eighty
horsepower.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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