The author of the _Land of the Lion and Sun_ may claim an exceptional degree of credit for his book on one of the most interesting countries in the world; for he derived his knowledge not merely from a journey through the country, but from a sufficiently prolonged residence to make him thoroughly at home with the people, and to understand their inner life. The _Times_, on its first appearance in 1883, characterized it as probably the most amusing book of travel that had been published in recent years. The author’s profession gave him access to the personality of the people to a marked extent, giving origin to many of the amusing anecdotes referred to. The verdict of the _Times_ was endorsed by very many journals. _Nature_ described the anecdotes as “distinguished by three cardinal virtues: they are characteristic, they are well told, and they are infinitely varied.” Since his return to England, Dr. Wills has become well known as a novelist and writer of short stories, which he has contributed to most of the leading magazines and society journals. His novels, some of which have been written in collaboration with Mr. F. C. Philips, have been widely read and highly appreciated. The illustrations, on separate plates, appear here for the first time. They are reproduced from native drawings, and from Dr. Wills’s photographs and drawings. G. T. B. TO MAJOR-GENERAL SIR F. J. GOLDSMID, C.B., K.C.S.I., FORMERLY DIRECTOR IN CHIEF OF THE INDO-EUROPEAN GOVERNMENT TELEGRAPH DEPARTMENT, SPECIAL COMMISSIONER FOR THE SETTLEMENT OF THE PERSIAN FRONTIER, This Book is Dedicated, WITH AFFECTIONATE ESTEEM, IN GRATITUDE FOR MANY KINDNESSES, BY HIS MOST OBEDIENT SERVANT, THE AUTHOR. PREFACE. My reason for calling my book ‘The Land of the Lion and Sun’ is that the Lion and Sun are the national emblems of Persia, while the second title alone, ‘Modern Persia,’ would have suggested an exhaustive and elaborate array of matter which is beyond the scope of this work. In a personal narrative, it is necessary to use a good many I’s; and to avoid being obscure, I fear I have been at times over minute, but I have preferred this to the risk of giving a false impression. I have striven to describe life in Persia as I saw it, not exaggerating or softening anything, but speaking of Persia as it is. The whole narrative may be considered as a record of life in an out-of-the-way corner of the world; and the reader being left to make his own reflections, is not troubled with mine. Usually no names are given, save of those of the dead, or public men.