In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
Two wild-looking horsemen and a servant of the British Agent presented
themselves, with a little bay pony of dolorous aspect in a halter for
my riding. I, knowing that no horses were laid out, asked with scorn
how the small pony could possibly carry me ninety miles in twenty-four
hours, which I had stipulated for; but all three men assured me that
I should certainly arrive, myself and saddle-bags, in the time on the
little animal. I confess that I disbelieved them, but we started off
at a smart canter, and we cantered for ten hours with short breaks of
ambling. We got to a village two hours after midnight, slept for four
hours, and arrived in Fussa at four, doing the journey under the time;
the small bay seemingly not at all distressed, and prepared to go back
to Shiraz at once at the same rate if desired. I was then surprised; I
know that any one of my own well-fed big horses would have knocked up.
But these little animals, used to the _severest continuous work_, do it
in the most extraordinary manner. I am a big, heavy man; my saddle was a
heavy English hussar saddle, and my bags and bedding certainly weighed
forty pounds or more. Of course the beast I rode was a good one of his
kind, and probably a very good one, for when I left, the Governor of
Fussa declined to part with him even at a fancy price of three times his
apparent value.
We rode up to the door of the Governor, whom I found propped up with
pillows in a corner of the room, a huge, fat man about thirty-eight, who
was a general debauchee, opium-eater, wine and spirit drinker, and bhang
smoker. He was suffering from gout.
An aged Syud, with a long beard and blue turban, was in attendance
from Shiraz as his physician. The Governor himself was a strikingly
good-tempered, even jovial man, and between the paroxysms of his gout,
joked and talked. The village, or rather district, magnates sat round him
chiming in with all his observations, and trying to soothe his pains.
They were, master and retainers, the fattest set of men I ever saw
collected in one room. A long description of the patient’s ills ensued,
many pipes of peculiar construction were smoked, and I was offered
a _tumblerful_ of strong spirit as a matter of course, considerable
surprise being expressed at my refusing it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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