In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
With boots are worn shulwar, or baggy riding breeches. These are very
loose, and tied at the ankle by a string; a sort of kilt is worn by
couriers. Pocket-handkerchiefs are never used, save by the rich or the
Teheranis.
Most Persians affect a “shub kola,” or night hat, for wear in their
homes. This is a loose, baggy cap, of shawl or quilted material: it is
often embroidered by the ladies, and presents of “night hats” are as
frequent with them as our ones of embroidered slippers.
As to arms, these are usually carried only by the tribesmen, who bristle
with weapons. The natives of the south of Persia and servants—these
latter generally, particularly in Shiraz—carry a kammer, or dirk, which
is, however, seldom used as an offensive weapon, save in drunken rows.
The soldiery, on or off duty, always carry one of these “kammers” or
their side-arms, sometimes both. They hack, but never thrust with them.
Of course on the road the carrying of weapons is the rule, and it is
needed, as there is no police, save the ephemeral phenomena introduced by
Count Monteforte at Teheran. These men, who are really efficient, are too
good to last.
The costume of the women has undergone considerable change in the last
century; it is now, when carried to the extreme of the fashion, highly
indecent, and must be very uncomfortable.
The garment doing duty as a chemise is called a perhān; it is, with the
lower orders, of calico, white or blue, and comes down to the middle of
the thigh, leaving the leg nude. Among the upper classes it is frequently
of silk. At Shiraz it is often of fine cotton, and elaborately ornamented
with black embroidery: among the rich it is frequently of gauze, and much
embroidered with gold thread, pearls, etc. With them it often reaches
only to the navel.
The head is usually covered with a chargāt, or large square of silk or
cotton, embroidered. These chargāts are folded, as were shawls amongst us
some years ago, thus displaying the corners, two in front and two behind;
it is fastened under the chin by a brooch. It is often of considerable
value, being of Cashmere shawl, embroidered gauze, etc.
A jika, a jewelled, feather-like ornament, is often worn at the side of
the head, while the front hair, cut to a level with the mouth, is brought
up in love-locks on either cheek. Beneath the chargāt is generally a
small kerchief of dark material, worn to set off the complexion, and
preserve the chargāt; only the edge of this is visible. The ends of the
chargāt cover the shoulders, but the gauze perhān, quite transparent,
leaves nothing to the imagination. The breasts and chest are very
visible, and the abdomen is quite bare.
On state occasions, or with women who aim at beauty, the face is always
painted more or less, and a profusion of jewellery worn. This is of the
most solid description, the gold some twenty-three carats fine, and quite
flexible: no hollow jewellery is worn, intrinsic value being what is
aimed at.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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