In the vine countrySomerville, E. Oe. (Edith Oenone)
General
In the vine country
Somerville, E. Oe. (Edith Oenone)
France -- Description and travel
But a fate very different from wayside _cuviers_ and ragged peasant
proprietors was in store for us. A couple of undulating miles brought us
in sight of a comfortable-looking white stone villa, flanked by long
outhouses, and surrounded by a small and phenomenally brilliant flower
garden. The vineyards ran like a smoothly swelling sea round the
borders of this island that had been preserved from their inroads; the
blinds of the villa were drawn down, and it seemed to look with ‘a stony
British stare’ upon the vintage operations going forward all day under
its eyes. Monsieur Z. told us that it had been built in imitation of an
English villa by the Baroness de Rothschild, but we did not dare to ask
why she should have chosen the square modern type, dear to the heart of
the retired solicitor. We asked instead why it should be called Mouton
Rothschild, and found that once in the dark ages the whole of this part
of the wine country had been given over to sheep, and that consequently
the word _mouton_ had survived here and there; but why it should be
tacked on to the name of a family could not be explained. It would be
neither kind or clever to call a newly-built house in the neighbourhood
of Limerick, Pig Robinson or Pork Murphy; but in France, Sheep
Rothschild is a very different affair, and a name held in uninquiring
reverence by the _négociant en vins_.
We left the carriage, and proceeded with all dignity to the _cuviers_
at the rear of the villa, while the hot and tawny _vent d’Afrique_ blew
suffocatingly in our faces, and covered our white veils with yellow
grit, and turned the most inviting shade to mockery. It was doubtless of
such heat as this that the lady’s-maid remarked to her mistress that it
quite ‘reminded ‘er of ‘ell!’ But, for all that, we had a kind of glory
in it; it made us feel that we were really abroad, and that we should be
able to bore our friends about the _vent d’Afrique_, when we got home,
in a manner that would surprise them. At this juncture we were halted in
front of a palatial building of two storeys, and following our guide
into it, we found ourselves in the twilight aisles of one of the great
fermenting houses of the Médoc. Right and left stood the huge barrels on
their white stone pedestals, belted monsters, spick and span in their
varnished oak and shining black hoops, with a snowy background of
white-washed wall to define their generous contour, and a neat little
numbered plate on each to heighten their resemblance to police
constables. This was an _édition de luxe_ of wine-making--at least, so
it seemed to us after what we had seen of dingy sheds, wine-stained
barrels, and promiscuous rubbish, with magenta legs splashing about in
juice, and spilt dregs as a foreground.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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