In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
The Royal Hotel at Ventnor comes up to its pretensions but poorly.
We were surprised to find the last three parties registered in the
visitors' book coming from France, Germany and Sweden respectively,
while our own added a fourth foreign registry in succession. The number
of foreign guests at this hotel seemed to indicate that Ventnor is
more popular with continental people than the average English resort
town, for as a rule we found very few European guests. Ventnor is
situated on a precipitous hill-slope, quite sheltered from the north
and east. The houses run up the hill in terraces and the ledge of rock
along the beach is barely wide enough for the promenade. The climate
is mild and few spots in England are more favored by invalids. It was
this that brought poor John Keats in 1817, and he composed "Lamia"
during his stay. Here was a favorite resort of Tennyson before he
settled in Freshwater, and Longfellow's visit in 1868 is commemorated
by an inscription which he composed for the fountain near the hotel in
Shanklin, the old town nearly contiguous to Ventnor. Shanklin contains
many bits of the picturesque old-time island--touches of antiquity
quite wanting in Ventnor.
The following day was one to be remembered; a day as near perfection
as one may have in England--the sky pale blue, cloudless and serene,
toning to lucent gray near the horizon, and the air fresh and
invigorating. Our road closely followed the coast with an almost
continual view of the sea. The ocean lay darkly under the rocks,
rippled over stretches of silvery beach, or glittered under the long
headlands, whose white chalk cliffs were almost dazzling in the
sunlight. There were flower-embowered cottages along the road, but
no villages for many miles. We gave two hours to the twenty miles to
Freshwater and enjoyed the beauty to our hearts' content--but no! to do
that one must linger until darkness shuts out the view.
Freshwater became famous through its association with Tennyson,
and the poet by coming here destroyed to a certain extent the very
retirement and quiet that he sought, for the tourists followed him,
much to his disgust. Yet he used to go about in a great slouching
hat and military cloak that advertised his presence to everyone--an
inconsistency that even his little grandchild is said to have noticed,
and that she queried in her childish innocence, "If you don't like
people to look at you, Grandpa, why do you wear that queer hat and
cloak?" But in any event, the trippers, though often snubbed for their
pains, flocked to Freshwater. They still come to the old home of the
poet, and the present Lord Tennyson is said to welcome them even less
than did his father.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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