In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
We stopped at a post card shop just opposite the rear entrance to
Farringford--a rustic gate opening into a narrow roadway between
tall trees--and they told us that the ban on visitors was absolute.
But one might see the house from the road. The unprecedented snow of
the preceding winter had almost destroyed the tree so beloved of the
poet--the
"giant Ilex, keeping leaf
When frosts are keen and days are brief,"
which hid the front of the house. Besides, the owner was now at
Aldworth and the gardener might not be so averse to visitors--but
we ignore the hint and content ourselves with a visit to Freshwater
Church. Lady Tennyson is buried in the churchyard, her grave marked
by a white marble cross. Inside there are tablets inscribed to the poet
and his wife, who were regular attendants at the church, and a marble
statue to the memory of Lionel, the son who died on shipboard in the
Red Sea when returning from India. The village of Freshwater is full of
picturesque cottages, and there are many more pretentious modern villas
which indicate that the blight of a popular watering place threatens
it. High on the hill, over the town and sea, towers the Tennyson
memorial, a great Celtic cross, forty feet in height, reared by the
poet's admirers in England and America.
[Illustration: THE TENNYSON HOME, FRESHWATER, ISLE OF WIGHT.]
There is little to see at Yarmouth, where we wait an hour or more for
the boat. In the church is buried Admiral Holmes, the man who took the
village of New Amsterdam from the Dutch and called it New York, and
a marble statue, representing the great seaman standing by a cannon,
commemorates this and other achievements. An English writer tells this
curious story of the monument:
"Even a poor judge of such things can see at a glance that this is
no ordinary piece of work. It is said that the unfinished statue was
intended to represent Louis XIV. and was being conveyed by the sculptor
in a French ship to Paris in order that the artist might model the head
from the living subject. Holmes captured the vessel and conceived the
brilliant idea of compelling the artist to complete the work with his
(the admiral's) likeness instead of that of le Grand Monarque. The old
fellow seems to wear a grim smile as he thinks of the joke, but as the
head is undoubtedly of inferior workmanship to the body, the artist may
have felt that he had his revenge."
The admiral was a native of Yarmouth and a part of his mansion is
incorporated into the Pier Hotel. It still retains the old staircase
and much antique paneling; and a tablet on the wall recites that
Charles II. was a guest here in 1671 on a visit to Holmes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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