In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
The old Bell Inn at Stilton, on the Great North Road fourteen miles
above Huntingdon, will arrest the attention of any one who has learned
to discriminate. It is a relic of the time when this road was one of
the busiest in all England--the coaching traffic between London, York
and Edinburgh plying over it. The inn fronts directly on the street--a
long, rambling building, with many gables, stone-mullioned windows and
huge, square, clustered chimneys. It is built of sandstone, weatherworn
to a soft, yellowish brown, and once rich in mouldings and carvings
which are now barely discernible. Now only about half of the house is
occupied and the stables have fallen in ruin. The village of Stilton is
one of the sleepiest and most rural type. What a contrast the good old
days must have presented when six and thirty coaches-and-four pulled up
daily at the Bell and its hostlers led nearly one hundred horses to its
capacious stables!
We saw much of rural England in threading our way from Stilton through
a maze of narrow byroads to Oundle, which caught our eye as one of
the quaintest of the old-world inland villages. Many are the pleasant
vistas down its streets, each with its array of buildings in soft-gray
and red tones, the sagging roofs surmounted by odd gables and huge
chimneys. But most interesting are the old inns, the Turk's Head and
the Talbot. The first is an imposing Jacobean structure with many
gables and deep-set stone-mullioned windows. The Talbot is quite
as fine in exterior, and though we could not remain as guests, the
landlord apparently took pleasure in showing us about, manifesting a
genuine pride in his establishment, which was further evidenced by its
well-kept appearance. Even the court was flower-bordered and there was
a flourishing greenhouse. Inside there are rooms with much antique
paneling and solid oaken beams which support the ceilings. But most
notable are the relics of Fotheringhay Castle incorporated into the
Talbot. The winding black-oak staircase is the one which Mary descended
on the mournful morning of her execution, and among the mullioned
casement windows are doubtless some through which the fair captive
often gazed during the long, weary days of her imprisonment.
[Illustration: CROSS ROADS NEAR OUNDLE.]
There are few places in the average village where the tourist can
gain local information so easily as at a picture postcard shop. The
keeper is sure to call your attention to everything of interest
and is equally sure to be well posted on the history and traditions
of the locality. Such a shop we found at Oundle, and the pictures of
Deane House and Church and Kirby Hall soon engaged our attention. "Do
not miss them," said the genial shopkeeper, and he gave us accurate
directions as to the roads--not easy to follow from the confusing
streets of Oundle into another tangle of byways.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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