In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
"There are absolutely no restrictions on visitors at Kirby Hall," we
were informed at Oundle, and it might have been added that no effort is
made to direct one thither. We passed unwittingly and were compelled
to turn about to find the common-looking farm gate that opened through
the hedgerow into the rough, stone-strewn bit of road leading to the
dismantled palace. So uninviting was the neglected lane that two or
three English motorists who arrived about the same time left their
cars and walked the mile or so to the Hall. It was not our wont to be
so cautious, and we drove directly to the stately though crumbling
gateway. As we rounded a group of trees and caught a full view of the
splendid facade of Kirby Hall, we could not repress an exclamation of
surprise. Beautiful and imposing, indeed, despite long years of neglect
and decay, is this magnificent Tudor mansion! It is built of white
stone, its long walls pierced by a multitude of graceful windows and
surmounted by great grouped chimneys and richly carved and pinnacled
gables. Passing the imposing entrance, we found ourselves in a wide,
grass-grown court, which the mansion surrounds in quadrangular form.
The architecture of the court is graceful in the extreme--fluted and
carved marble pilasters running the full height between the windows,
which have a distinctly classic touch on the entrance side. On the
three remaining sides there are great clustered windows, no less than
twenty in one of the groups, separated by slender stone mullions. Most
of the glass has disappeared or clings to the casements in shattered
fragments, though in a small, still-inhabited corner the windows are
entire. We wander at will through the once splendid apartments, now in
pitiable decay and ruin. In the banqueting hall--a vast apartment with
high open-beamed roof and minstrel gallery--a washerwoman is heating
her water-pots, and piles of wool are stored in the Hall of State.
But from the far greater number of the rooms the roof has wholly or
partially disappeared and the rooks scold each other in the chimneys
or caw hungrily among the sagging rafters. The room once used for
the library is less ruinous and its two immense circular bay windows
overlook a beautiful stretch of country. But, altogether, the house is
more of a ruin than we anticipated at first glance. Restoration would
be expensive and difficult. The walls in many places lean far from the
vertical and are intersected by cracks and rents. Columns and pilasters
are broken and sprung and in many windows the mullions are gone or
twisted awry. The staircases are gone and the halls and passageways
piled deep with debris. Yet such is the charm of the place that only
recently an American negotiated with its owner, the Earl of Winchelsea,
with a view to purchase and restoration, but through inability to
clear the title, the deal was never consummated. Kirby Hall has been
in the possession of the Winchelsea family ever since it was built by
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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