In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
A little to one side of the village they pointed out the "Washington
House," and we followed a stony path leading into the farmyard, where
the good man was just stabling his horses. A typical country woman--of
the tenant class--warmly welcomed us at Sulgrave Manor. Clearly
they are glad to see Americans here; visitors are not the tolerated
intruders that they are in so many historic places. We learned that we
should even be welcome to a clean, neatly furnished room had we desired
to pass the night beneath the roof. We were shown every nook and corner
of the curious old house--not an extensive or imposing one, but three
hundred years ago domestic accommodations were not elaborate even
in the homes of the nobility, and while the Washingtons ranked high
among the gentry, they did not possess a title. The house has not been
greatly altered, in outward appearance, at least, and is kept in scant
repair by the owner, a Devonshire gentleman; fortunately, the thick
stone wall and heavy oaken beams yield but slowly to time's ravages.
The most imposing feature is the solid black-oak staircase with its
curiously twisted banisters. The interior has been altered from the
original plan--just how much it is difficult to ascertain. Nothing,
however, impresses the American visitor so much as the Washington
coat-of-arms, executed in plaster on one of the gables by the ancient
owner. This had suffered much from the weather, but has lately been
protected by a glass covering. The outer walls were originally covered
with plaster, but this has fallen away in many places, showing the
rough stone underneath; and elsewhere masses of ivy half hide the
small, square-paned windows. Very faithful in detail and sentiment is
Mr. Sherrin's picture, painted at my request--the artist gaining his
inspiration by a week under the old roof while employed in his task.
The picture shows the old house much as we saw it, standing against
a rich sunset sky, its harsh outlines softened by a little distance.
The picture of the village and church was done by the artist at the
same time, though for effect the church is shown rather as it appeared
before it was restored. We followed the rough cobblestone walk to the
church door, but could not gain admittance until the caretaker was
found, for Sulgrave Church has been kept strictly under lock and key
ever since one of the Washington brasses was stolen--by an American, of
course--a few years ago. It is a small, rough, lichen-covered building,
much restored, even to the stolen brass tablet to the memory of the
first Laurence Washington. The engraving of this, on another page,
shows how certainly the Washington coat-of-arms must have suggested the
motif for the American flag and the great seal of the United States.
The church is very ancient and there is in the choir a small "Lepers'
Door," unique as one of three or four in England. Here in olden time
the lepers might approach for alms or to hear the sermon, but dared
not enter the church.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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