Inca Land: Explorations in the Highlands of PeruBingham, Hiram
History
Inca Land: Explorations in the Highlands of Peru
Bingham, Hiram
Incas; Peru -- Antiquities; Peru -- Description and travel
The elevation of the Base Camp was 17,300 feet. We were surprised
and pleased to find that at first we had good appetites and no
soroche. Less than a hundred yards from the wall tent was a small
diurnal stream, fed by melting snow. Whenever I went to get water for
cooking or washing purposes I noticed a startling and rapid rise in
pulse and increasing shortness of breath. My normal pulse is 70. After
I walked slowly a hundred feet on a level at this altitude it rose to
120. After I had been seated awhile it dropped down to 100. Gradually
our sense of well-being departed and was followed by a feeling of
malaise and general disability. There was a splendid sunset, but we
were too sick and cold to enjoy it. That night all slept badly and had
some headache. A high wind swept around the mountain and threatened
to carry away both of our tents. As we lay awake, wondering at what
moment we should find ourselves deserted by the frail canvas shelters,
we could not help thinking that Coropuna was giving us a fair warning
of what might happen higher up.
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FIGURE
The Base Camp, Coropuna, at 17,300 Feet
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FIGURE
Camping at 18,450 Feet on the Slopes of Coropuna
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For breakfast we had pemmican, hard-tack, pea soup and tea. We
all wanted plenty of sugar in our tea and drank large quantities
of it. Experience on Mt. McKinley had led Tucker to believe
heartily in the advantages of pemmican, a food especially prepared
for Arctic explorers. Neither Coello nor Gamarra nor I had ever
tasted it before. We decided that it is not very palatable on first
acquaintance. Although doubtless of great value when one has to spend
long periods of time in the Arctic, where even seal's blubber is a
delicacy "as good as cow's cream," I presume we could have done just
as well without it.
It was decided to carry with us from the Base enough fuel and
supplies to last through any possible misadventure, even of a week's
duration. Accounts of climbs in the high Andes are full of failures
due to the necessity of the explorers' being obliged to return to
food, warmth, and shelter before having effected the conquest of
a new peak. One remembers the frequent disappointments that came
to such intrepid climbers as Whymper in Ecuador, Martin Conway in
Bolivia and Fitzgerald in Chile and Argentina, due to high winds,
the sudden advent of terrific snowstorms and the weakness caused by
soroche. At the cost of carrying extra-heavy loads we determined to
try to avoid being obliged to turn back. We could only hope that no
unforeseen event would finally defeat our efforts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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