For a long time I sat smoking by the window, my body weary, but my
imagination irritatingly stimulated. The big sign-lights of the hotel
went out; window after window closed below me; the electric standards
in the streets were already extinguished; and Helouan looked like a
child’s white blocks scattered in ruin upon the nursery carpet. It
seemed so wee upon the vast expanse. It lay in a twinkling pattern,
like a cluster of glow-worms dropped into a negligible crease of the
tremendous desert. It peeped up at the stars, a little frightened.
The night was very still. There hung an enormous brooding beauty
everywhere, a hint of the sinister in it that only the brilliance of
the blazing stars relieved. Nothing really slept. Grouped here and
there at intervals about this dun-coloured world stood the everlasting
watchers in solemn, tireless guardianship--the soaring Pyramids, the
Sphinx, the grim Colossi, the empty temples, the long-deserted tombs.
The mind was aware of them, stationed like sentries through the night.
‘This is Egypt; you are actually in Egypt,’ whispered the silence.
‘Eight thousand years of history lie fluttering outside your window.
_She_ lies there underground, sleepless, mighty, deathless, not to be
trifled with. Beware! Or she will change you too!’
My imagination offered this hint: Egypt _is_ difficult to realise. It
remains outside the mind, a fabulous, half-legendary idea. So many
enormous elements together refuse to be assimilated; the heart pauses,
asking for time and breath; the senses reel a little; and in the end
a mental torpor akin to stupefaction creeps upon the brain. With a
sigh the struggle is abandoned and the mind surrenders to Egypt on her
own terms. Alone the diggers and archaeologists, confined to definite
facts, offer successful resistance. My friend’s use of the words
‘resistance’ and ‘protection’ became clearer to me. While logic halted,
intuition fluttered round this clue to the solution of the influences
at work. George Isley realised Egypt more than most--but as she had
been.
And I recalled its first effect upon myself, and how my mind had been
unable to cope with the memory of it afterwards. There had come to
its summons a colossal medley, a gigantic, coloured blur that merely
bewildered. Only lesser points lodged comfortably in the heart. I saw a
chaotic vision: sands drenched in dazzling light, vast granite aisles,
stupendous figures that stared unblinking at the sun, a shining river
and a shadowy desert, both endless as the sky, mountainous pyramids
and gigantic monoliths, armies of heads, of paws, of faces--all set to
a scale of size that was prodigious. The items stunned; the composite
effect was too unwieldy to be grasped. Something that blazed with
splendour rolled before the eyes, too close to be seen distinctly--at
the same time very distant--unrealised.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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