Incwadi Yami; or, twenty years' personal experience in South Africa — John Shaqi
Incwadi Yami; or, twenty years' personal experience in South AfricaMatthews, J. W. (Josiah Wright)
History
Incwadi Yami; or, twenty years' personal experience in South Africa
Matthews, J. W. (Josiah Wright)
Diamond mines and mining -- South Africa; South Africa -- Description and travel
After five years’ work without any intermission, I made arrangements
early in 1870 to take a trip up country as far as the Drakensberg, a
range of mountains which divides Natal from the Free State and
Basutoland. I proposed to visit Captain Allison “at home” in his border
residency, to see the celebrated falls, where I had been told the
Tugela, rushing over awe-inspiring and romantic precipices, leaps 1,500
feet at a bound, then to visit the Mont aux sources, where from one
single spot the Tugela issues forth on its course to Natal, the Elands
River to the Free State, the Caledon to Basutoland, and the Orange River
through the Cape Colony to the Atlantic Ocean; and further to explore
the cannibal caves of Usidinane, situated in the heart of Putini’s tribe
and Langalibalela’s location.
My wife, myself, Captain Hill, of the Victoria mounted rifles, an
amateur photographer and four natives formed our party. Getting the
wagons, oxen and provisions all in readiness, we left Verulam on March
3d.
[Illustration:
UMZABA’S KRAAL, 1867.
]
The country between D’Urban and Maritzburg, the capital of the Natal
colony, ascends gradually from the sea level to an elevation of over
2,000 feet, sometimes in gentle slopes, sometimes in abrupt and rugged
steps. Our road lay through the village of Pinetown, a noted health
resort, round the cuttings of that precipitous height called Bothas
Hill, which afforded glimpses in the far distance of the fantastic
mountains, with their volcanic cones and extinct craters, of the Inanda
location, and the gloomy defiles through which the Umgeni River could be
seen twisting and winding. Then passing the Inchanga cutting, with huge
blocks of granite hundreds of tons in weight studding the foreground,
and Camperdown, a hamlet consisting of two or three homesteads and a
third-rate roadside inn, we at last reached Maritzburg, some fifty miles
from the coast. Here we remained over Sunday, and of course went to the
cathedral and heard Bishop Colenso preach. The sacred edifice was
crowded, as we were told it always was when this revered prelate
occupied the pulpit; and I may here say that his noble and commanding
presence, an attraction in itself, added greatly to the fascination of
his eloquence. The sermon that the bishop gave us on the morning on
which I heard him dealt with the trials and sufferings of Christ. In
vain I looked out for heretical doctrines, but seldom has it been my
privilege to listen to a sermon so devout in spirit and withal so
orthodox.
It was difficult indeed, seeing and hearing him, to realize the
opposition with which he was then meeting, or to comprehend the
presumption, I might say the gnarling, that characterized the majority
of his revilers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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