The Inamdar's house is by the river side, and the river being at that
time in flood and full from bank to bank, it would have been a
picturesque sight, if it had not been for the colour of the water,
which gave the impression of a river of rolling mud. This is the case
with most Indian rivers, and detracts a good deal from their beauty.
The buildings forming the Inamdar's establishment enclosed an
irregular sort of courtyard. On one side of this was the mosque and
the tomb of the saint. The residential part of the premises formed
another side, into which the mixed assembly of a _pan supari_ party
would not be allowed to penetrate. A third side of the courtyard was
occupied by a long, low, whitewashed shed, open in front, and with a
few small windows at the back looking on to the river, and this was
arranged for the reception of the guests. It was elaborately festooned
with paper flowers and other adornments, something after the fashion
of Christmas-tree decorations. The effect was more gay than artistic.
I have never been able to ascertain where the particular sort of
furniture originally came from which adorns the reception-rooms of
Indians who are in a position to occasionally entertain distinguished
guests. It is a little like what is sometimes seen on the stage. The
sofas and chairs are very ornate, and equally uncomfortable. The
carpets are often really handsome, because their design and
manufacture is an art which is thoroughly understood in the East, and
in more primitive days they would have formed almost the only
furniture of a reception-hall.
Out in the compound were flowers in pots, after the manner of an
Indian garden, and a few trees, as well as one or two tombs of
Mohammedan saints of a somewhat lower rank than Peer Sayed Hisamodin.
A strip of red cloth from the place where carriages were to set down,
indicated that visitors were to make their way into the shed. I was
amongst the earliest arrivals, and was received by the Inamdar and his
son with all that graceful courtesy which no one knows better how to
show than an Indian. The full dress of a Mohammedan is striking and
effective. They never of course wear the _dhota_, which is the garment
of Hindus, but they wear instead trousers, fitting very close at the
foot, but of great width in the upper part.
I thought it prudent to ask what the order of proceedings would be.
They told me that there would be a little music, and distribution of
garlands and _pan supari_, and finally dancing. I replied that I could
not witness the last item in the programme. The Inamdar's son
intimated that this item would not come off till later on in the
evening, when the Europeans would have left. I asked him how they
could be willing to receive into their house women of the character of
the dancers. He looked sheepish, and was no doubt relieved that
another arrival called him away.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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