INDIANS OF THE ENCHANTED DESERT BY LEO CRANE WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BOSTON LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY 1925 TO those people of the Enchanted Desert who called me “Chief,”—Indians, employees, missioners, traders,—whose confidence, loyalty, and devotion made my work among the Hopi and Navajo tribes possible of success; and to humbler friends, my faithful horses, Dandy and Barney Murphy, Prince and Frank, that went with me so many weary miles, and were shot, by my order, to save them from the miseries of Governmental economy, this book is dedicated. CONTENTS PAGE I Nolens Volens 3 II Across the Plains 11 III Into “Indian Country” 22 IV Old Trails and Desert Fare 30 V Desert Life and Literature 44 VI A Northern Wonderland 54 VII The First Ball of the Season 65 VIII Old Oraibi 78 IX The Making and Breaking of Chiefs 94 X The Provinces of the “Mohoce or Mohoqui” 101 XI The Law of the Realm 113 XII Comments and Complaints 122 XIII A Desert Vendée 142 XIV Soldiers, Indians, and Schools 157 XV An Echo of the Dawn-Men 181 XVI Fiddles and Drums 191 XVII Service Tradition 210 XVIII Buttons and Bonds 224 XIX Our Friends, the Tourists 240 XX The Great Snake-Ceremony 260 XXI Desert Belascos 275 XXII On the Heels of Adventure 287 XXIII The Red Bootleggers 297 XXIV Held for Ransom 312 XXV Wanted at Court 325 XXVI Hopi Annals 336 XXVII L’Envoi 361 ILLUSTRATIONS Announcing the Snake Dance Frontispiece Walpi, the Pueblo of the Clouds 12 The Valley and Its Headlands A Navajo Flock and Its Shepherds 16 Cañon de Chelly, Seen from the Rim