The town waked-up; the air held the tonic thrill that comes only from
pine-clad peaks; the yellow dust of yesterday now kept its place. At
this season in Arizona one may expect the wind to rise about noon and
continue its nerve-racking tyranny until sunset. The blessed sunlight
prevents one from remaining depressed, however, and there is always an
end to the windy season, whatever the nerves meantime. When the last
shriek has died away in early summer, it seems there lives a vacuum, a
strange stillness, like that which follows the stopping of a clock.
I found the station platform quite busy that morning. Trains discharged
their hungry freight, and the hotel kitchens fed them in battalions. A
well-stocked news-stand promised that I would not lack for
entertainment. The general spirit of moving life and activity caused
one to forget that the Desert lurked beyond, that these rails were
simply a tiny causeway spanning it for many miles, desolation on either
side.
Chance acquaintance is made easily in the Southwest, and it was not
long before I answered the query of a young man as to where I headed. I
replied that there was a long journey to make, out into the Desert,
among the Indians perhaps. He seemed not to be aware that Indians were
of the immediate locality, and asked: “How far?”
“Oh—about thirty miles.”
“Humph!” he commented, drily; “people in this country go that far to
water a horse.”
The pastime and humor of Arizona is exaggeration. I know now that the
ranchers of the Southwest, and the so-called nomadic Indians, for that
matter, are people of definite localities. An Indian of the Desert will
name and locate his hogan or home camp as specifically as the man of a
city street. Indians are born, live, and frequently die within a very
small area of the Desert. That is why Indians—and you may scoff—are
likely to be lost at night during storms. Their distant travels are
well planned, by daylight, much the same as anyone breaks monotony with
a holiday or business trip. Only those of the most remote desert places
make long journeys as a part of daily routine, and then when need
compels. I have yet to see the man who lived miles from water. Water
decides where any man may live in the Desert—and his animals too.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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