Early in the day the crowd of sightseers has gathered on the mesa-top,
and in late afternoon it begins massing at the Walpi plaza. There is
the usual wrangle over prominent places, and the inevitable bickering
as to who engaged them first. Soon the roofs and terraces and balconies
are hidden by the people. The odd stairways and other points of vantage
cause the crowd to group as if arranged by a stage director. A dozen or
more crown the Snake Rock itself. They wait patiently, expectantly, as
small boys await the head of the circus parade. Old Judge Hooker
arrives, garbed for the occasion, and harangues them with Hopi cries,
announcing to all and several that this great ceremony will positively
be held on this date, once, and once only this season, and imploring
them to grant it the respect it deserves. The Indians present pay
attention to his speech, for on this occasion at least the Judge has
the Agency police within call; but the whites do not know what he has
said, and so care very little about it. This waiting in a too-crowded
place is a monotonous and tiring procedure. There is much stirring
about, leaving a good place and then wishing one had not.
And suddenly comes a distant sounding of rattle-gourds, a faint but
insistent noise, like dried peas blown against glass.
“Here they come!” calls the ever-present small boy, who perches
perilously on a projecting house-pole.
Quietly, ceremoniously, the Antelope priests in single file enter the
plaza. Their gourds sound steadily, and with slow measured steps they
march about the stage four times. When passing the kisi, each man
stamps with his right foot on the board that shelters the snakes. They
sprinkle meal. And they are followed by the guardian of the
bull-roarer, a tall man who carries a huge Indian bow ornamented with
feathers, and who stops in mid-stage to sound his awesome instrument.
With all the force of his arm he whirls that wooden plumb-bob on a
sinew string. It moans with the wind voice of the Desert. Then the
Antelope men form a straight line with the kisi, their backs to the
houses and their faces to the plaza.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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