This seemed a very simple matter, and I gave no thought to the turns I
might encounter coming out. I was then, of course,—and because of some
mental defect am yet,—notoriously the worst road-finder in all the
Southwest. And when I departed next day, with “the old woman’s team,”
there was no one to crowd additional information on me.
In the city, to lose one’s way may be foolish without being
unfortunate; but in the Desert one must arrive at his destination, or
the results may be serious. And all the road directions from old-timers
are similar. The Plains Indian can be more definite. He may say, “Three
hills and a look.” The Arizona guide is a despair.
“You can’t miss it,” they invariably prelude. “Take the main road until
you reach that little cornfield just beyond the hogan of Benally
Bega’s—remember that draw before you come to Black Mesa? That’s it.
Then the left trail until you reach that scraggy cedar; then head down
across for that old corral, where the sheriff caught Bob Peterson;
then—you know where we nooned in 1913? It’s right east of that; and
then, you can’t miss it—it’s right over from there—” the whole distance
being sixty miles, and no water in the first five townships.
One plunges deeply on the optimism indicated by “you can’t miss it,”
and starts. At midnight, with a tired team and no blankets, one
suddenly realizes that he has missed it, and missed it bad. The sun
sinks to rest, the desert grows black and threatening, he is off the
main-traveled road, and no candle-lights are gleaming through the dark.
There he remains until morning, when, cold and cramped, having kindled
a fire to warm a can of beans that a more sensible man had slung under
the seat, he finds that he has invited in the whole Navajo tribe. Five
minutes after the wisp of smoke and the aroma of the burnt beans, comes
an Indian, and another, and another, each looking earnestly for
breakfast. It never fails. Between many signs and all the beans, not
forgetting the passing of “thathli ibeso,” which is one dollar in hard,
bitable silver, he finds that he is only five miles off the road, and
that his original destination is “right over from there.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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