After numerous fatigues and dangers he at length saw himself near the
end of his journey, and approached Guaxaca. At a village, within a short
distance of that place, he saw, for the first time in his life, and with
the utmost pleasure, the fine cochineal feeding on the nopal, or cactus,
which it frequents. He saw a garden full of nopals, and not doubting but
that they were laden with cochineal insects, he sprang from his horse,
and, under pretence of adjusting his stirrups, entered into conversation
with the Indian proprietor of the garden. He asked him with apparent
indifference what was the use of those plants, and was answered, that
they were for the cultivation of _grana_. Feigning surprise, de
Menonville asked to be permitted to see this grana, and he was really
astonished when the insect was brought to him, for he had supposed it
red, and it was in fact covered with a white powder. “My doubts,” he
says, “were tormenting, but I suddenly thought of the expedient of
crushing one upon white paper, when what did I see?—the true purple of
kings!” Full of delight and anticipation, the traveller now set forward
towards the spot where he might hope to make himself acquainted with the
culture of the precious insect, and purchase a store for transportation.
Nothing could be more beautiful than the situation of Guaxaca, capital
of the province of that name. Standing in the midst of fertile and
extensive plains, at the foot of a majestic mountain range, and watered
by a fine and noble river, this city is richly supplied with corn and
fruits of all kinds, at the same time that its environs supply a most
favourable site for the culture of the cochineal. The air, continually
refreshed by easterly breezes in the morning, and westerly in the
evening, is pure and delicious, like that of a May morning. Indeed, our
traveller asserts, that for magnificence of site, beauty of decoration,
excellence of soil, fine temperature, and abundance of European and
American fruits succeeding each other without intermission, nothing is
wanting to Guaxaca to make it an enchanting spot, but an active and
industrious people, to avail themselves of its natural advantages.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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