Ireland -- Description and travel; Ireland -- Social conditions
Well, all those travelling priests possess chronometers—we are obliged
to notice it, since it appears to be a sign of easy circumstances in
Ireland—and the rest of their attire fully carries out that symptom.
Under the undefinable cut that at once betrays a clerical garment,
their black coat has all the softness of first quality cloth; their
travelling bag is of good bright leather; their very umbrella has a look
of smartness, and does not affect the lamentable droop that with us is
always associated with the idea of a clerical umbrella. Some of them wear
the Roman hat and collar, with a square-cut waistcoat and the ordinary
trousers of the laity, and stockings of all the hues of the rainbow. A
young curate sports violet-coloured ones, which he exhibits with some
complacency. I ventured to ask him, in the course of conversation,
whether he belonged to the Pope’s household. He answered with a blush of
modesty that he had not that honour, and wore violet hose because he was
fond of that colour.
That is a matter of taste; but I have a right to suppose, young
Levite, that the mitre and episcopal rochet—perhaps even the cardinal
purple—hover at night over your ingenuous dreams.
* * * * *
LIMERICK.
Limerick is a big town of 40,000 inhabitants, celebrated for its hams,
lace, and gloves. The objects of interest are an important linen factory,
and another for military equipments, besides a stone mounted on a
pedestal, and which served as a table for signing the famous treaty of
1691—soon violated like all treaties, however. Opposite that historic
stone, on the other side of the Shannon, the ancient castle of King John
rears its proud head; it has a grim and gloomy look, with its seven
towers, its thick walls and iron-bound gates.
At the large hotel of the place I meet again three of my ecclesiastical
fellow-travellers. They evidently know what is good for them, and would
on no account stop at second-rate inns. One cannot blame them for it. But
this is a sign of prosperity, added to all the others; a hotel at fifteen
shillings a day, without counting the wine, seems at first sight suited
to prelates rather than to humble clergymen. Yet these are only village
and parish priests, as I gather from the book on which I sign my name
after theirs. At dinner, where we sit side by side, I am compelled to
see that the appetite of the reverend fathers is excellent, and that the
_carte_ of the wines is a familiar object with them. They each have their
favourite claret: one likes Léoville, another Château Margaux, while the
third prefers Chambertin; and they drain the cup to the last drop. After
dessert they remain last in the dining-room, in company with a bottle of
port.
At ten o’clock that night, entering it to get a cup of tea, I find the
three seated round glasses of smoking toddy.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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