Ireland -- Description and travel; Ireland -- Social conditions
A sickening smell, recalling that of ill-ventilated hospitals, comes
out of those lairs and suffocating you, almost throws you back. But it
is too late. You have been caught sight of. From all sides visions of
horror are emerging to light, spectres are starting up; old hags that
would have surprised Shakespeare himself, swarm round you, holding out
their hand for a _copper_. The younger women don’t generally come to the
front, not that their wants be less, but they know that coppers are not
inexhaustible, and that the old ones must have the precedence. So they
remain sadly in the background, and then, when you have emptied your
pockets, there is a roar of benedictions fit to rend one’s heart with
shame. They are so fearfully sincere! And how many times do we not throw
to the winds of our caprice what would be sufficient to quench at least
for one moment, the thirst which is raging in that hell! You fly from
that den of horror, wondering whether the most horrible deserts would
not be more merciful to those destitute creatures than the _liberties_ of
the city of Dublin.
* * * * *
In your flight you fatally fall upon Nicholas Street, where all those
dark alleys open. This is the way to the cathedral, and the great
commercial artery of this side of the town. If any doubt remained in you
after the insight you had of the houses of the poor in Dublin, about the
way they live, that street alone would give you sufficient information.
From end to end it is lined with a row of disgusting shops or stalls,
where the refuse of the new and the ancient world seems to have come
for an exhibition. Imagine the most hideous, ragged, repulsive rubbish
in the dust-bins of two capitals, and you will get an idea of that
shop-window display; rank bacon, rotten fish, festering bones, potatoes
in full germination, wormy fruit, dusty crusts, sheep’s hearts, sausages
which remind you of the Siege of Paris, and perhaps come from it; all
that running in garlands or festoons in front of the stalls, or made
into indescribable heaps, is doled out to the customers in diminutive
half-pence morsels. At every turning of the street a public-house with
its dim glass and sticky glutinous door. Now and then a pawnbroker with
the three symbolic brass balls, and every twenty yards a rag and bone
shop.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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