Ireland -- Description and travel; Ireland -- Social conditions
Numerous tramcars, light and quick, cross Dublin in all directions. Five
or six railway stations are the heads of so many iron lines radiating
fan-wise over Ireland. All bear their national stamp; but what possesses
that character in the highest degree is that airy vehicle called a
jaunting-car.
Imagine a pleasure car where the seats, instead of being perpendicular to
the shafts, are parallel with them, disposed back to back and perched on
two very high wheels. You climb to your place under difficulties; then
the driver seated sideways like you (unless the number of travellers
obliges him to assume the rational position), lashes his horse, which
plunges straightway into a mad career.
This style of locomotion rather startles you at first, not only on
account of its novelty, but also by reason of the indifferent equilibrium
you are able to maintain. Jostled over the pavement, threatened
every moment to see yourself projected into space, at a tangent, you
involuntarily grasp the nickel handle which is there for that purpose,
just as a tyro horseman instinctively clutches the mane of his steed. But
one gets used in time to the Irish car, and even comes to like it. First,
it goes at breakneck speed, which is not without its charm; then you have
no time to be bored, considering that the care of preserving your neck
gives you plenty of occupation; lastly, you have the satisfaction of
facing constantly the shop windows and foot paths against which you are
likely to be tossed at any moment. Those are serious advantages, which
other countries’ cabs do not offer. To be candid, they are unaccompanied
by other merits.
* * * * *
In that equipage you go to the Phœnix Park, the Dublin “Bois de
Boulogne.” It is a wide timbered expanse of some two thousand acres,
full of tame deer, where all that is young in the place may be seen
flirting, cricketing, playing all sorts of games, but above all,
bicycling. Bicycles seem to be the ruling passion of the Dublin youth.
I have seen more than a hundred at a time in a single lane near the
Wellington Obelisk. By the way, this was the very avenue where Lord
Frederick Cavendish and Mr. Burke were murdered five years ago by the
_Invincibles_. A cross marks the place where the two corpses were
discovered.
The Castle, which the two English officials had the imprudence to leave
that day, is the Lord-Lieutenant’s official residence. It has not the
picturesque majesty of the castles of Edinburgh or Stirling. Instead of
rising proudly on some cloud-ascending rock and lording over the town, it
seems to hide “its diminished head” under a little hillock in the central
quarters. You must literally stumble over its walls to become aware of
their existence; and you understand then why the name of _Dublin Castle_
is for the Irish synonymous with despotism and oppression.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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