CHAPTER IV. Abbeyleix, Feb. 12, 164 Newtown-Stewart, 164 An absentee landlord, 164 "The hill of the seven murders," 165 Newry, Dublin, Maple's Hotel, Maryborough, 165 "Hurrah for Gilhooly," 166 Abbeyleix town, chapel, and church, 168 Embroidery and lace work, 169 Wood-carving, 170 General Grant, 171 Kilkenny, 172 Kilkenny Castle, 173 Muniment-room, 174 Table and Expense Books, 176 Dublin once the most noted wine-mart of Britain, 177, 178 Cathedral of St. Canice, 178 The Waterford cloak, 179 The College, 180 Irish and Scotch whisky, 180 Duke of Ormonde's grants, 181 The Plan of Campaign, 182-186 Ulster tenant-right, 186, 187 CHAPTER V. Dublin, Feb. 14, 188 The Irish National Gallery, 188-191 Feb. 15, 192 London: Mr. Davitt, 192 Irish Woollen Company, 193 Mr. Davitt and Mr. Blunt, 193 Mr. Davitt's character and position, 192-199 CHAPTER VI. Ennis, Feb. 18, 200 Return to Ireland, 200 Irish Nationalists, 200, 201 Home Rule and Protection, 202 Luggacurren and Mr. O'Brien, 204 Dublin to Limerick and Ennis, 204, 205 Colonel Turner, 205 Architecture of Ennis Courthouse--Resemblance to White House, Washington, 206 Number of public-houses in Ennis, and in Ireland, 207, 208 Innkeepers of Milltown Malbay, 208,209 Father White (see Note E), 209 Sir Francis Head, 210, 211 Different opinions in Ennis, 212, 213 State of trade in Ennis, 213, 214 Edenvale, Heronry, 215 _seq._ Feb. 19, 215 The men of Ennis at Edenvale, 216 Killone Abbey, 218-221 Stephen J. Meany, 220 "Holy Well" of St. John, 221 Superstition as to rabbits, 222 Religious practices under Penal Laws, 222 Experiences under National League, 223, 224 Case of George Pilkington, 224-226 Trees at Edenvale, 227 Moonlighters, a reproduction of Whiteboys, 227, 228 Difficulty in getting men to work, 228 A testimonial to Mr. Austen Mackay, 229-232 Effect of testimonials, 232 Feb. 20, 232 The case of Mrs. Connell at Milltown Malbay, 232 _seq._ Estate accounts and prices, 240 A rent-warner, 245 Mr. Redmond, M.P., 245 Father White's Sermon, 246 A photograph, 246 APPENDIX. NOTES-- A. Mr. Gladstone and the American War (Prologue xxix), 249 B. Mr. Parnell and the Dynamiters (Prologue xxxiii), 251 C. The American "Suspects" of 1881 (Prologue xlvii), 255 D. The Parnellites and the English Parties (Prologue l.), 262 E. The "Boycott" at Miltown-Malbay (p. 209) 264 PROLOGUE. I. This book is a record of things seen, and of conversations had, during a series of visits to Ireland between January and June 1888.