Ireland Under Coercion: The Diary of an American (2 of 2): (2nd ed.) (1888)Hurlbert, William Henry
History
Ireland Under Coercion: The Diary of an American (2 of 2): (2nd ed.) (1888)
Hurlbert, William Henry
Ireland -- Description and travel; Ireland -- Politics and government -- 1837-1901
The drive from Youghal to Lismore along the Blackwater, begins,
continues, and ends in beauty. In the summer a steamer makes the trip by
the river, and it must be as charming in its way as the ascent of the
Dart from Dartmouth to Totness, or of the Eance from Dinard to St.
Suliac. My jarvey was rather a taciturn fellow, but by no means
insensible to the charms of his native region. About the Ponsonby estate
and its troubles he said very little, but that little was not entirely
in keeping with what I had heard at Youghal. "It was an old place, and
there was no grand house on it. But the landlord was a kind-man."
"Father Keller was a good man too. It was a great pity the people
couldn't be on their farms; and there was land that was taken on the
hills. It was a great pity. The people came from all parts to see the
Blackwater and Lismore; and there was money going." "Yes, he would be
glad to see it all quiet again. Ah yes! that was a most beautiful place
there just running out into the Blackwater. It was a gentleman owned it;
he lived there a good deal, and he fished. Ah! there's no such river in
the whole world for salmon as the Blackwater; indeed, there is not!
Everything was better when he was a lad. There was more money going, and
less talking. Father Keller was a very good man; but he was a new man,
and came to Youghal from Queenstown."
We passed on our way the ruins of Dromaneen Castle, the birthplace of
the lively old Countess of Desmond, who lies buried at Youghal. Here,
too, according to a local tradition, she met her death, having climbed
too high into a famous cherry-tree at Affane, near Dromaneen, planted
there by Sir Walter Raleigh, who first introduced this fruit, as well as
the tobacco plant and the potato, into Ireland. At Cappoquin, which
stands beautifully on the river, I should have been glad to halt for the
night, in order to visit the Trappist Monastery there, an offshoot of La
Meilleraye, planted, I think, by some monks from Santa Susanna, of
Lulworth, after Charles X. took refuge in the secluded and beautiful
home of the Welds. The schools of this monastery have been a benediction
to all this part of Ireland for more than half a century.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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