In the mud of their complacently perpetuated barnyard pond, they assert
that no bright-browed, bright-apparelled shining figures can be outside
of fairy books, old histories, and ancient superstitions. Never having
seen the stars, they deny the stars. Never having glimpsed the shining
ways nor the mortals that tread them, they deny the existence of the
shining ways as well as the existence of the high-bright mortals who
adventure along the shining ways. The narrow pupils of their eyes the
centre of the universe, they image the universe in terms of themselves,
of their meagre personalities make pitiful yardsticks with which to
measure the high-bright souls, saying: “Thus long are all souls, and no
longer; it is impossible that there should exist greater-statured souls
than we are, and our gods know that we are great of stature.”
* * * * *
But all, or nearly all on the beach, forgave Ida Barton her suit and form
when she took the water. A touch of her hand on her husband’s arm,
indication and challenge in her laughing face, and the two ran as one for
half a dozen paces and leapt as one from the hard-wet sand of the beach,
their bodies describing flat arches of flight ere the water was entered.
There are two surfs at Waikiki: the big, bearded man surf that roars far
out beyond the diving-stage; the smaller, gentler, _wahine_, or woman,
surf that breaks upon the shore itself. Here is a great shallowness,
where one may wade a hundred or several hundred feet to get beyond depth.
Yet, with a good surf on outside, the _wahine_ surf can break three or
four feet, so that, close in against the shore, the hard-sand bottom may
be three feet or three inches under the welter of surface foam. To dive
from the beach into this, to fly into the air off racing feet, turn in
mid-flight so that heels are up and head is down, and, so to enter the
water head-first, requires wisdom of waves, timing of waves, and a
trained deftness in entering such unstable depths of water with pretty,
unapprehensive, head-first cleavage, while at the same time making the
shallowest possible of dives.
It is a sweet, and pretty, and daring trick, not learned in a day, nor
learned at all without many a milder bump on the bottom or close shave of
fractured skull or broken neck. Here, on the spot where the Bartons so
beautifully dived, two days before a Stanford track athlete had broken
his neck. His had been an error in timing the rise and subsidence of a
_wahine_ wave.
“A professional,” Mrs. Hanley Black sneered to her husband at Ida
Barton’s feat.
“Some vaudeville tank girl,” was one of the similar remarks with which
the women in the shade complacently reassured one another—finding, by way
of the weird mental processes of self-illusion, a great satisfaction in
the money caste-distinction between one who worked for what she ate and
themselves who did not work for what they ate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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