Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Slave trade -- Africa
"March 7.--Much difficulty in ascending the river, but upon arrival at
the dry ground (called the 'dubba'), we found the No. 8 steamer and the
whole fleet assembled, with the exception of six that are in sight.
"March 8.--The other vessels arrived; I have thus thirty-four sail,
including the two steamers. The entire country is swamp, covered with
immensely high water-grass, beneath which the depth is considerable. The
reputed main channel of the river is supposed to come from S.W., this is
only denoted by a stream three or four feet broad, concealed by high
grass, and in places choked by the Pistia Stratiotes. These surface
plants, which resemble floating cabbages with fine thready roots, like a
human beard of sixteen inches in length, form dense masses which are
very difficult to clear
"Our guides are useless, as we cannot depend upon their contradictory
statements. We are in a deplorable position--the whole fleet in a
cul-de-sac; the river has disappeared; an unknown distance of apparently
boundless marsh lies before us; there is no wood, and there is no
possibility of moving without cutting a channel.
"I have ordered thirty vessels to form in line, single file, and to cut
a canal.
"March. 9.--The men worked famously, but I much fear they will be laid
up with fever if kept at such an unhealthy task. To-day a force of 700
men cut about a mile and a half. They are obliged to slash through with
swords and knives, and then to pull out the greater portion of the grass
and vegetable trash; this is piled like artificial banks on either side
upon the thick floating surface of vegetation. I took a small boat and
pushed on for a mile and a half. I found a very narrow stream, like a
small brook, which gave hopes of lighter labour for to-morrow. I shall
therefore try to force the steamer through. Thirty-two men reported on
the sick list this evening.
"March 10.--A fine north wind for about half an hour, when it suddenly
chopped round to the S.E. We cut on far ahead, so that I was able to
push on the steamers and the whole fleet for a distance of about five
miles. I had a touch of fever.
"March 11.--Frightful stinking morass. All stopped at a black muddy pond
in the swamp. The river is altogether lost. We have to cut a passage
through the morass. Hard work throughout the day. One soldier died of
sunstroke. No ground in which to bury him.
"It is a curious but most painful fact that the entire White Nile has
ceased to be a navigable river. The boundless plains of marsh are formed
of floating rafts of vegetation compressed into firm masses by the
pressure of water during floods. So serious is this obstacle to
navigation, that unless a new channel can be discovered, or the original
Nile be reopened, the centre of Africa will be entirely shut out from
communication, and all my projects for the improvement of the country
will be ruined by this extraordinary impediment.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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