One of the most important steps you take to keep the cloth from stretching out of shape is to stay-stitch the edges. Stitch along the curved and bias edges. These edges would be the neck, shoulders, waist, armscye, and upper hip line. Stay-stitching is done on each piece separately, through a single thickness. Stitch ½ inch from the edge of the cloth, or ⅛ inch from seamline. [Illustration: Stay-stitching] OUTSIDE CENTER BACK OUTSIDE CENTER FRONT OUTSIDE CENTER BACK Pin and sew darts The purpose of the dart is to shape the fabric to the body. After the dart is properly marked, pin the two markings together and stitch from the large end of the dart to the point. Near the point, guide the fabric so that the stitches will be only a thread or two from the edge of the fold. Fasten the threads by back stitching or by tying the threads. Sew from the highest to the lowest point or from the widest to the narrowest point, as shown by arrows on the diagrams to prevent stretching during stitching. [Illustration: Cutting a dart] Make strong seams The life of your clothing is determined by the kind and quality of its seams. There are many types of seams and seam finishes. Each one has a special purpose. Plain seam [Illustration: Plain seam] The plain seam is the most commonly used and is the first step in making other types of seams. The plain seam is made on the wrong side of the garment. To make a plain seam, place the right sides of the fabric together. Pin and sew a seam the desired width. This is usually ⅝ inch. Follow the instructions in your pattern. Use this seam on your blouse, skirt, and dress. Seam finishes Finishes are used on fabrics to prevent the edges from fraying. Use one of the following finishes: Pinked edges [Illustration: Pinked edges] Use pinking shears, if you are able to handle them. Trim off only the very edge of your seam. Be very careful. Edge stitching [Illustration: Edge stitching] After the plain seam is pressed open, machine stitch along each edge of the seam. This is a stronger finish than the pinked edge. Selvage The selvage may be left as a seam finish on your skirt. Clip the selvage every 2 or 3 inches. The clip should be no deeper than ⅛ inch. A deeper cut will ruin the seam. Your seams are not complete until you have pressed them. Remember, always press a seam before joining it to another seam. Make a fitted facing Edges that cannot be hemmed may be finished with either bias or fitted facings. Facings can be turned to the right or wrong side of an article. They may be part of the decoration if used on the right side. Fitting and stitching 1. Stay-stitch neck and shoulders. 2. Insert a basting line to mark center front and back of the facing and blouse. Use darning cotton.