Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
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Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
Sunday we had a party and music at the French Embassy (Vatican). Diemor
played beautifully, so did Teresina Tua. When they played together
Griegg's sonata for piano and violin it was enchanting. All the Black
world was there, and a good many strangers.
Thursday, February 25th.
We dined last night at the Wurts', who have a charming apartment in one
of the finest old palaces (Anticci Mattei) in Rome. The staircase
beautiful, most elaborately carved, really reminded me of Mont St.
Michel. Their rooms are filled with all sorts of interesting things, the
collection of years. The dinner was very pleasant--half Italian, half
diplomatic.
I have just come in from my audience with the Pope. I found the
convocation when I got home last night. Bessie was rather disgusted at
not having received hers, as we had planned to go together; but she said
she would come with me. She would dress herself in regulation
attire--long black dress and black veil--and take the chance. We had a
mild humiliation as we got to the inner Court. The sentries would not
let us pass. We had the small coupé, with one horse, and it seems
one-horse vehicles are not allowed to enter these sacred precincts. We
protested, saying we had a special audience, and that we couldn't get
out on the muddy pavement, but it was no use; they wouldn't hear of our
modest equipage going in, so we had to cross the court--quite a large
one, and decidedly muddy--on foot, holding up our long dresses as well
as we could.
It seemed so natural to go up the great stone staircase, with a few
Swiss guards in their striped red and yellow uniform standing about. We
spoke to one man in Italian, asking him the way, and he replied in
German. I fancy very few of them speak Italian. We passed through a good
many rooms filled with all sorts of people: priests, officers, gardes
nobles, women in black, evidently waiting for an audience, valets de
chambre dressed in red damask, camerieri segreti in black velvet
doublets, ruffs and gold chains and cross--a most picturesque and
polyglot assemblage; one heard every language under the sun.
We were passed on from one room to another, and finally came to a halt
in a large square room, where there were more priests, one or two
monsignori, in their violet robes, and two officers. I showed my paper,
one of the monsignori, Bicletis (maestro di Casa di Sua Santità), came
forward and said the Pope was expecting me; so then I presented Bessie,
explained that her name had been sent in at the same time with mine, and
that if she could be admitted (without the convocation) it would be a
great pleasure to both of us to be received together. He said there
would be no difficulty in that.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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