Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
While we were talking to him the door into the audience chamber was
opened, and a large party came out--the Comte and Comtesse d'Eu and
their sons, with a numerous suite. We had barely time to exchange a few
remarks, as Monsignor Bicletis was waiting for us to advance. We found
the Pope standing in the centre of rather a small room. The walls were
hung with red damask, the carpet also was red, and at one end were three
gold chairs. We made low curtseys--didn't kneel nor kiss his hands,
being Protestants. He advanced a few steps, shook hands, and made us sit
down, one on each side of him. He was dressed, of course, entirely in
white. He spoke only Italian--said he understood French, but didn't
speak it easily. He has a beautiful face--so earnest, with a fine upward
look in his eyes; not at all the intellectual, ascetic appearance of Léo
XIII., nor the half-malicious, kindly smile of Pius IX., but a face one
would remember. I asked him if he was less tired than when he was first
named Pope. He said, oh, yes, but that the first days were very
trying--the great heat, the change of habits and climate, and the change
of food (so funny, one would think there needn't be any great change
between Rome and Venice--less fish, perhaps). He talked a little--only a
little--about France, and the difficult times we were passing through;
knew that I was a Protestant and an "old Roman"; asked how many years
since I had been back; said: "You won't find the old Rome you used to
know; there are many, many changes."
[Illustration: Pope Pius X.]
He was much interested in all Bessie told him about America and the
Catholic religion in the States--was rather amused when she suggested
that another American cardinal might perhaps be a good thing. He asked
us if we knew Venice, and his face quite lighted up when we spoke of all
the familiar scenes where he had spent so many happy years. He was much
beloved in Venice. He gave me the impression of a man who was still
feeling his way, but who, when he had found it, would go straight on to
what he considered his duty. But I must say that is not the general
impression; most people think he will be absolutely guided by his
"entourage," who will never leave him any initiative.
As we were leaving I said I had something to ask. "Dica, dica, La prego"
(Please speak), so I explained that I was a Protestant, my son also, but
that he had married a Catholic, and I would like his blessing for my
daughter. He made me a sign to kneel and touched my head with his hand,
saying the words in Latin, and adding, "E per Lei et tutta la sua
famiglia" (for you and all your family). He turned his back slightly
when we went out, so we were not obliged to back out altogether.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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