Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
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Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
I had my audience from Queen Margherita alone this afternoon. Bessie and
Josephine have already been. Her palace is in the Veneto (our quarter)
and very near. It is a large, fine building, but I should have liked it
better standing back in a garden, not directly on the street. However,
the Romans don't think so. There are always people standing about
waiting to see her carriage or auto pass out--they wait hours for a
smile from their beloved Regina Margherita. I went up in an
ascenseur--three or four footmen (in black) and a groom of the chambers
at the top. I was ushered down a fine long gallery with handsome
furniture and pictures to a large room almost at the end, where I found
the Marquise Villa Marina (who is always with the Queen), the Duchesse
Sforza Cesarini (lady in waiting), and one gentleman. There were three
or four people in the room, waiting also to be received. Almost
immediately the door into the next room opened, and the Duchesse Sforza
waved me in (didn't come in herself). I had at once the impression of a
charming drawing-room, with flowers, pictures, books, bibelots--not in
the least like the ordinary bare official reception room where Queen
Elena received us. The Queen, dressed in black, was sitting on a sofa
about the middle of the room, and really not much changed since I had
seen her twenty-four years ago at the Quirinal, when the present King
was a little boy, dressed in a blue sailor suit. She is a little
stouter, but her blonde hair and colouring just the same, and si grand
air. She was most charming, talked in French and English, about
anything, everything--asked about my sister-in-law, Madame de Bunsen,
and her daughter Beatrice, whom she had known as a little girl in
Florence. She is very fond of automobiling, so we had at once one great
point of sympathy. She had read "The Lightning Conductor" and was much
amused with it. We talked a little about the great changes in Rome. I
told her about our visit to the Pope, and the impression of simplicity
and extreme goodness he had made upon us. I can't remember all we talked
about. I had the same impression that I had twenty-four years ago--a
visit to a charming, sympathetic woman, very large-minded, to whom one
could talk of anything.
Sunday, 28th.
It has poured all day, but held up a little in the afternoon, so we went
(all four) to see Cardinal Mathieu, who lives in the Villa Wolkonsky. He
had asked us to come and walk in his beautiful garden (with such a view
of the Aqueducts) but that was of course out of the question. He is very
clever and genial, and was rather amused at the account we gave him of
our discussions. We are two Catholics and two Protestants, and argue
from morning till night--naturally neither party convincing the other.
He told us we should go to the Vatican to-morrow--there was a large
French pèlerinage which he presented. We would certainly see the Pope
and perhaps hear him speak.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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