Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
Monday.
We had a pleasant breakfast this morning with Bebella d'Arsoli,[33] in
their beautiful apartment in his father's (Prince Massimo's) palace.
The palace looks so black and melancholy outside, with its heavy portico
of columns (and always beggars sitting on the stone benches under the
portico) that it was a surprise to get into their beautiful rooms--with
splendid pictures and tapestries. The corner drawing-room, where she
received us, flooded with light, showing off the old red damask of the
walls and the splendid ceiling. We went to see the Chapel after
breakfast, where there are wonderful relics, and a famous pavement in
majolica.
[33] Princess d'Arsoli, née Bella Brancaccio, granddaughter of Hickson
Field.
About 3 we started off for St. Peter's. We had all brought our veils
with us, and retired to Bebella's dressing-room where her maid arranged
our heads. We left a pile of hats which Bebella promised to send home
for us, and took ourselves off to the Vatican, taking little Victoria
Ruspoli with us, who looked quite sweet in her white dress and veil--her
great dark eyes bright with excitement. We found many carriages in the
court, as we got to the Vatican, and many more soldiers on the stairs,
and about in the passages. The rooms and long gallery were crowded--all
sorts of people, priests, women, young men, children (some very
nice-looking people) all speaking French. We went at first into the
gallery, but there was such a crowd and such a smell of people closely
packed that we couldn't stay, and just as we were wondering what to do,
Monsignor Bicletis came through and at once told us to come with him. He
took us through several rooms, one large one filled with people waiting
for their audience, into the one next the Pope's, who he said was with
Cardinal Mathieu, and would soon pass. We were quite alone in that room,
except for three or four priests. In a few moments the Pope appeared
with Cardinal Mathieu and quite a large suite. The Cardinal, who had
promised to present Madame de B. (there had been some delay about her
convocation), came up to us at once. We all knelt as the Pope came near,
and he named Madame de B. and little Victoria, who asked for his
blessing for her brothers. He recognised me and Bessie, and said we were
welcome always at the Vatican. He only said a few words to Madame de B.
as he had a long afternoon before him. Cardinal Mathieu told us to
follow them, so we closed up behind the suite, and followed the Pope's
procession.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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