Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
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Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
There must have been over a hundred people waiting in the next room, and
it was an impressive sight to see them all--men, women, and
children--kneel as the Pope appeared. Some of the children were quite
sweet, holding out their little hands full of medals and rosaries to be
blessed--almost all the girls in white, with white veils, like the
little first communiantes in France. The Pope made his "cercle,"
speaking to almost every one--sometimes only a word, sometimes quite a
little talk. We followed him through one or two rooms to the open
loggia, which was crowded. We were very hot, but he sent for his cloak
and hat. We waited some little time but the crowd was so dense--he would
have spoken from the other end of the loggia--and we couldn't possibly
have got through--so we came away, having had again a very interesting
afternoon.
It is most picturesque driving around the back of St. Peter's and the
Vatican. There are such countless turns and courts and long stretches of
high walls with little narrow windows quite up at the top. Always people
coming and going--cardinals' carriages with their black horses, fiacres
with tourists looking eagerly about them and speaking every possible
language, priests, women in black with black veils, little squads of
Papal troops marching across the squares--and Italian soldiers keeping
order in the great piazza. A curious little old world in the midst of
the cosmopolitan town Rome has become.
ROME, March 2d.
Yesterday Madame de B. and I made an expedition to the Catacombs of San
Calisto fuori Porta San Sebastiano. It was decidedly cold and we were
very glad we hadn't taken the open carriage. The drive out was
charming--first inside the gates, passing the Colosseum, the two great
arches of Constantine and Titus, and directly under the Palatine Hill
and Baths of Caracalla, and then going out through the narrow little
gateway, and for some little distance through high stone walls, we came
upon the countless towers, tombs and columns standing alone in the
middle of the fields, having no particular connection with anything,
that mark the Appian Way, and make it so extraordinarily interesting and
unlike any other drive in the world. I was delighted when we came upon
that funny little stone house, built on the top of a high circular
tomb--I remembered it perfectly.
The Catacombs stand in a sort of garden or vineyard. There were people
already there, and a party just preparing to go down as we appeared.
They had asked for a guide who spoke French, as they knew no Italian,
and a nice-looking, intelligent young monk was marshalling his party and
lighting the tapers. I thought _they_ were rather short (I am rather
nervous about subterraneous expeditions and one has heard gruesome tales
of people lost in the Catacombs, not so very long ago) but they lasted
quite well.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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