Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
We seem always to be doing something, but have had two quiet evenings
this week. Friday night we went to the Valle to see Marchesa Rudini's
Fête de Bienfaisance. The heat was something awful, as the house was
packed, and as at all amateur performances they were unpunctual, and
there were terribly long intervals. The comédie was well acted, a little
long, but the clou of the evening was the ballet-pantomime, danced by
all the prettiest women in Rome. The young Marchesa Rudini (née
Labouchère) looked charming as a white and silver butterfly, and danced
beautifully, such pretty style, not a gesture nor a pas that any one
could object to. The rest of the troop too were quite charming, coming
in by couples--the Princess Teano and Thérèse Pécoul a picture--both
tall, one dark, one fair, and making a lovely contrast. I should think
they must have made a lot of money.
Saturday I had a pleasant afternoon at the Palazzo dei Cesari with Mr.
and Mrs. Seth Low. He is an excellent guide, had already been all over
the palace with Boni and knew exactly what to show us. It was a
beautiful afternoon and the view over Rome, the seven hills, and the
Forum was divine. These first Roman Emperors certainly knew where to
pitch their tents--what a magnificent scale they built upon in those
days. The old Augustus must have seen wonderful sights in the Forum from
the heights of the Palatine.
Josephine had a large dinner in the evening for the Grand Duchess and
Cardinal Vannutelli. It was very easy and pleasant, and we all wore our
little fichus most correctly as long as the Cardinal was there (they
never stay very long), but were glad to let them slip off as soon as he
went away, for we had a great many people in the evening and the rooms
were warm. I had rather an interesting talk with an old Italian friend
(not a Roman) over the tremendous influx of strangers and Italians from
all parts of Italy to Rome. He says au fond the Romans hate it--they
liked the old life very much better--they were of much more importance;
it meant something then to be a Roman prince. Now, with all the Northern
Italians, Court people and double Diplomatic Corps Rome has become too
cosmopolitan. People amuse themselves, and dance and hunt, and give
dinners at the Grand Hotel and trouble themselves very little about the
old Roman families (particularly those who have lost money and don't
receive any more). The Romans have a feeling of being put aside in their
own place.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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