Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
It was beautiful this morning, so I took my convenient tram again and
went over to see the pictures of the Vatican. Such a typical peasant
couple were in the tram, evidently just down from the mountains, as they
were looking about at everything, and were rather nervous when the tram
made a sudden stop. The woman (young and rather pretty) had on a bright
blue skirt, a white shirt with a red corset over it, a pink flowered
apron, green fichu on her head, and long gold ear-rings with a coral
centre. The man, a big broad-shouldered fellow, had the long cloak with
the cape lined with green that the men all wear here, and a slouched hat
drawn low down over his brows. They got out at St. Peter's and went into
the church. I went around by the Colonnade as I was going to the
pictures. There were lots of people on the stairs. It certainly is a
good stiff pull up.
I stayed about an hour looking at the pictures--all hanging exactly
where I had always seen them, except the Sposalizio of St. Catherine,
which was on an easel near the window; some one evidently copying it. I
was quite horrified coming back through the Stanze by some English
people--three women--who were calmly lunching in one corner of the room.
They were all seated, eating sandwiches out of a paper bag, and drinking
out of a large green bottle. Everybody stopped and looked at them, and
they didn't mind at all. The gardien was looking on like all the rest. I
was so astounded at his making no remarks that I said to him, surely
such a thing is forbidden; to which he replied smilingly: "No--no, non
fanno male a nessnno--non fanno niente d'indecente" (No, they are doing
no harm to any one, they are doing nothing indecent). That evidently was
quite true; but I must say I think it required a certain courage to
continue their repast with all the public looking on, giggling and
criticising freely.
I dined this evening with Malcolm Kahn--Persian Minister--and an old
colleague of ours in London. It was very pleasant--General Brusatti, one
of the King's Aides-de-Camp, took me in, and I had Comte Greppi, ancien
Ambassadeur, on the other side. Greppi is marvellous--really a very old
man, but as straight as an arrow, and remembering everybody. Tittone,
Minister of Foreign Affairs, was there, but I wasn't near him at table,
which I regretted, as I should have liked to talk to him.
Palm Sunday, March 27th.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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