Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
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Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
It was beautiful this morning, so I went for a turn in the Villa
Borghese, which is a paradise these lovely spring days; only the getting
to it is disagreeable. It is a hot, glaring walk up the Via Veneto, not
an atom of shade anywhere until one gets well inside the grounds. I was
walking about on the grass quite leisurely, and very distraite, not
noticing any one, when I heard my name. I turned and saw two ladies
making signs to me from the other side of the road, so I squeezed
through a very narrow opening in the fence, and found myself with the
grand duchess and her lady-in-waiting, who were taking their morning
walk. We strolled on together. She asked me if I always came to the
villa in the morning. I said "No," I often went shopping in the morning,
and told her about my photographer of the Via Sistina and the difficulty
of getting a photograph of Antonelli. She instantly said: "Oh, but I can
help you there, if you really would like a photograph of Antonelli. I
have a fine portrait of him that was painted for my beau-père. It is in
the palace at Weimar, and I will give orders at once for the court
photographer to go and copy it." I was much pleased, as I _do_ want the
photograph and was rather in despair at not having found one. It seemed
incredible to me, until I had asked a little, that there should be
nothing of Antonelli. After all, it isn't very long since he played a
great part here, so it was a most fortunate rencontre for me this
morning. We parted at the gate--I walked home and she got into her
carriage.
Friday, April 7th.
We made a pleasant excursion yesterday to San Gregorio, the Brancaccios'
fine place beyond Tivoli. The day unluckily was grey, looked as if it
would pour every minute, we had none of the lovely lights and shades
that make the Campagna and the hills so beautiful. We went out in
Camillo Ruspoli's automobile, a Fiat, Italian make, strong and fast. The
road is not particularly interesting until one begins the steep ascent
to Tivoli; then looking back the view of course was beautiful. We didn't
have much time to admire it, for the auto galloped up the steep hill as
if it were nothing. After Tivoli the road goes straight up into the
Sabine hills, winding and narrow, with very sharp corners, which we
swung round quite easily certainly, as Ruspoli managed his carriage
perfectly--but still the road _was_ narrow and steep--hills rolling away
on one side, a precipice and deep valley on the other, no wall nor
parapet of any description, and it was absolutely lonely. If anything
had broken, or an animal crossed our road suddenly, and made us swerve,
I don't think anything could have saved us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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