Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
The castle looked very imposing as we came up to it, an enormous mass,
the village built into the castle walls, standing high on the top of a
hill. The flag was flying, all the population, wildly excited (another
automobile had arrived before us), were massed at the gates, the
drawbridge down, and Bessie and her husband waiting for us, also the
Bishops who had come in their auto. We took off some of our coats, but
not all, as the rooms are so enormous that it was cold, notwithstanding
a great fire in the big hall. We had an hour before breakfast, so they
showed us the house which is magnificent, with the most divine views on
all sides from all the balconies, corner windows, etc. It is beautifully
furnished, perfectly comfortable. I couldn't begin to describe it--one
couldn't take it all in in a flying visit. There are several complete
apartments with dressing-rooms, bath-rooms, etc., so curious to see so
much modern comfort and luxury inside this grim old castle on the top of
a rock far back in the Sabine hills.
It was very cold--I kept on my thick coat. There are balconies and
little bridges connecting towers, high terraces, staircases in every
direction--quite bewildering. We breakfasted in the large dining hall,
and it was pleasant to see the enormous logs, and to hear the crackling
and spluttering of a big fire. There are some fine Brancaccio portraits,
in the curious old-world court dress of the Neapolitan ladies of the
last century. They gave us an excellent breakfast, with a turkey bred
and fattened at the olive farm (it seems these olive-fed turkeys are
their specialty). We did some more sight-seeing after breakfast,
bachelor apartments principally, such curious old niches and steep,
narrow little staircases (we could only pass single file) cut in the
thick walls, and then started off to drive and walk in the park. They
had two nice little two-wheeled carts, with stout ponies, just the thing
for rough wood driving. The park is charming--long green alleys with
beautiful views--the country all around rather stony and barren, no
shade as there are few trees. We hadn't time to go to the olive farm,
which I was sorry for, as the people were all working there picking the
olives. I should have liked to see the women with their bright skirts
and corsets making a warm bit of colour in the midst of the grey-green
olive groves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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