Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
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Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
It is real summer weather--too hot to walk in the morning, particularly
from here, where we have to cross the open piazza before we can get
anywhere. Thursday we went to the races with the Brancaccios, on their
coach. It was most amusing, the road very animated all the way out from
Porta San Giovanni to Campanelle; every one making way for the coach as
they do in England. There was every description of vehicle, and
quantities of police and soldiers--the road very strictly guarded, as
the King and Queen were coming. It looked very pretty to see a patrol of
cuirassiers suddenly appearing from under an old archway, or behind a
bit of ruined wall, or from time to time one solitary soldier standing
on the top of a high mound. It was very hot, the sun too strong on our
heads, but we didn't go very fast; couldn't, in such a crowd, so we were
able to hold our parasols.
The course and all the tribunes were crowded; the women almost all in
white or light dresses. The King and Queen came in an open carriage with
four horses--no escort. We had a pleasant day, meeting quantities of
people we knew. We had rather a struggle for tea; there were not nearly
enough tables and chairs for so many people; but we finally got some
under difficulties, two of us sitting on the same chair and thankful to
get it.
The drive home was lovely, cool, and very little dust. Rome looked soft
and warm in the sunset light as we got near, and the statues on San
Giovanni Laterano almost golden as the light struck them. It was
interminable when we got into the file, and Brancaccio had some
difficulty in turning into his court-yard.
Monday, April 18th.
It is enchanting summer weather, but too hot for walking. I have had two
charming auto expeditions with Mr. and Mrs. Bishop. Saturday we started
after breakfast to Cività Vecchia. The country is not very interesting
near Rome, but it was delightful running along by the sea--the road low
and so close to the water that the little waves came nearly up to the
wheels. Cività Vecchia looked quite picturesque, rising up out of the
sea. We didn't stop there, merely drove through the town, and came home
another way inland, through the hills, quite beautiful, but _such_ sharp
turns and steep bits. We climbed straight up a high hill (2,000 feet)
soon after leaving Cività Vecchia, and had for some time a divine view
of sea and coast; then plunged at once into the mountains, great barren,
stony peaks with little old grey villages on top; hills rolling away on
each side, a wild, desolate country. The road was very lonely, we met
only a few carts; the peasants frantic with terror as the big auto
dashed by.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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