Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
We passed Bracciano, the great feudal castle of the Odescalchi, with the
beautiful little blue lake at the bottom of the hill. It is a fine old
pile, square and grey, with battlements running all around it--more
imposing than attractive. After leaving Bracciano we flew--the road was
straight and level--and got back to Rome by Ponte Molle and Porta del
Popolo.
Sunday we made a longer expedition to the Falls of Terni. There were
three autos--quite a party. The road was very different, but quite
beautiful, green fields and olive woods, and lovely effects of light and
shade on the Campagna. The day was grey, the sun appearing every now and
then from behind a cloud, at first; later, when we stopped on the high
road, with not a vestige of tree or bit of wall to give us shade, we
longed for the clouds.
We soon began to climb, then down a long, winding hill to Cività
Castellana, an old fortified town, walls all around. We drove in through
the gate, and along a narrow steep street filled with people, as it was
Sunday, and asked if they had seen another auto. They told us yes, in
the piazza, so we went on, making our way with difficulty through the
crowded streets; every one taking a lively interest in the auto. The
square, too, was crowded, all the women in bright skirts and fichus, and
a fair sprinkling of uniforms; little carts with fruit and vegetables,
and two or three men with mandolins or violins (a mild little music) but
no signs of an auto. A splendid gentleman in uniform with waving plumes
and a sword (mayor, I suppose) came up and interviewed us, and told us
an auto had been there, coming from Rome, but had left about ten minutes
before; so we started off again, and had a beautiful drive to Terni. We
passed Narni, which stands very well on the top of a rock, high above
the little river which runs there through a narrow gorge to the Tiber.
We crossed a fine large bridge, then down a hill to Terni, where we
breakfasted. After breakfast we started for the Falls, about four miles
further on, and quite beautiful they are, a great rush of sparkling
water falling from a height and breaking into countless little falls
over the green moss-covered rocks below. It was delicious to hear the
sound of running water, and to feel the spray on our faces after our hot
ride.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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