Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
We didn't get out. We shouldn't have seen the Falls any better, and
would have had to scramble over wet, slippery stones. There was the
usual collection of guides, beggars, etc., offering us pieces of
petrified stone, and of course post-cards of the Falls. Just around
Terni the hills are very green, the slopes covered with olive trees, and
quantities of white villas scattered about on the hillside, little
groups of people loitering about, women and girls making pretty bits of
colour as they strolled along. They love bright colours, and generally
have on two or three, red or blue skirts, yellow fichus on their heads,
or over their shoulders, coloured beads or gold pins. Some of them
carried such heavy loads on their heads or backs, great bundles of
fagots, or sacks of olives, old women generally. They are given that
work as a rest when they are too old to do anything in the fields.
We came home by another road, always the same wild mountain scenery,
always also the same sharp curves and steep descents. It is certainly
lovely country, green hills breaking away in every direction. As we got
higher, great stony, barren peaks, torrents rushing along at our feet,
and always on the top of a rock, rising straight up out of the hills, a
little old grey village (with usually a steeple and sometimes an old
square castle). Some of the villages were stretched along the
mountain-side about half-way up. They all looked perfectly lonely and
inaccessible, but I suppose life goes on there with just as much
interest to them, as in ours in the busy world beneath.
We raced up and down the hills, through beautiful country, scarcely
slackening when we passed through some little walled towns (hardly more
than one long crooked street), in at one gate and out at the other,
people all crowding into the piazza, smiling and taking off their hats.
Once or twice one heard them say "la Regina" evidently thinking it was
Queen Margherita, who loves her auto, and makes long country excursions
in it. It was a curious, fantastic progress, but enchanting.
The other autos had started some time ahead of us. We saw an object
(stationary) as we were speeding down a steep hill, which proved, as we
got near, to be one of them, stuck in a little stream, quite firmly
embedded in the sand, and looking as if nothing would ever get it out.
About 15 or 20 men were pulling and hauling, but it seemed quite
hopeless. It wasn't a very pleasant prospect for us either, as our auto,
too, was big and heavy, and we had to get across. It would have been too
far to go back all the way round. However, Mr. Bishop's chauffeur was
not in the least concerned, said he would certainly take _his_ carriage
over, and he did, Mrs. Bishop and me in it. We waited to see the other
one emerge from its bed of sand. The men pulled well, and talked as hard
as they pulled, and finally the great heavy machine was landed on the
other side.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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