Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
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Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
We had tea on the shore, made in Countess Frankenstein's tea-basket, and
it was delicious sitting there, seeing the little blue waves break at
our feet, and the beautiful clear atmosphere making everything look so
soft and near.
The coming home was enchanting, very few people on the road, so we could
come quickly, and the flying through the air was delightful after the
heat and fatigue of the day. The Campagna is beautiful at the end of the
day; so quiet, long stretches of green just broken here and there by the
shepherds' huts, and the long lines of aqueducts, curiously lonely so
close to a great city.
We had just time to dress and dine, and start for the gala at the opera.
The theatre (Argentina) is small, and stands in a narrow street. There
was a long file of carriages, and so little space in front, that there
could be no display of troops, music, etc., as one has always in Paris
for a gala night at the Opera. Inside, too, all is small, the entrance,
corridor, staircase, etc. Once we had got to our box the coup d'oeil was
charming. The whole house is boxes, tier upon tier, all dark red inside,
which threw out the women's dresses and jewels splendidly. They were
almost all in white with handsome tiaras, the men in uniform, at least
the diplomatists and officers. The peuple souverain, senators, deputies,
etc., in the parterre were in black. The heat was something awful. The
Court came very punctually--the Queen looked handsome with her beautiful
tiara, the King of course in uniform, the President between them in
black with no decoration. The house went mad (every one standing of
course) when they played the Marseillaise, all the parterre cheering and
waving hats and handkerchiefs; equally mad when they stopped that and
played the Marcia Reale. The King, who is generally quite impassive,
looked pleased. The performance, like all gala performances, was long,
but the Royal party didn't look bored, and seemed to talk to each other,
and to Loubet quite a good deal. The King has a serious, almost stern
face, with a keen, steady look in the eye. I should think he saw
everything. The end of the ballet was a fine potpourri of French and
Italian flags, Marseillaise and Marcia Reale, and the Court left in a
roar of cheers. The Queen bowed very graciously and prettily right and
left as she turned to go.
The getting away was difficult and disagreeable, the narrow street was
crowded with royal carriages, all the horses prancing and backing, and
no one paying attention to anything else. However, it was a fine, dry
night, and once we had got across the street we found our carriage
(guided by the faithful Pietro) without any trouble.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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