Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
This morning the Piazza is most interesting. Evidently the King and
President pass at the foot of the square, as there are troops
everywhere, and a double line of soldiers stretching across the top of
the Tritone. Every description of vehicle, omnibuses, fiacres, peasants'
carts, people on horseback, all ranged close up behind the soldiers;
groups of carabinieri with their red plumets are scattered about the
Piazza; a long line of red-coated German seminarists crossing at one
end, two or three Cappucini with their sandals, bare feet, and ropes at
their waists, coming out of their church, but not stopping to see the
show.
I am writing as usual at the window, and a fine smell of frittura comes
up from the shop underneath. A most animated discussion is going on just
under the window between a peasant, sitting well back on his donkey's
tail, two baskets slung over his saddle, strawberries in one, nespoli
(medlars) in the other, and a group of ragged, black-eyed little imps to
whom some young Englishmen have just given some pennies. They all talk,
and every now and then some enterprising boy makes a dive at the
baskets, whereupon the man makes his donkey kick, and the children
scatter. All the people in the street, and the coachmen of the little
botte (there is a station in the Piazza Barberini) take a lively
interest in the discussion; so do I from the window, but the police are
arriving and the man will be obliged to come to terms. The coachmen of
the botte are a feature of Rome, they spot the foreigner at once, and
always try to get the better of him. I took a carriage the other day to
go and breakfast with Mrs. Cameron in the Piazza di Spagna, about two
minutes' drive, and asked our porter what I must give the coachman. He
said one lira (franc). When we arrived I gave my franc, which he
promptly refused to receive; however I told him I knew that was the
tariff and I wouldn't give any more. He protested energetically, giving
every possible reason why I should give more--his carriage was the best
in the piazza, the road (Via Tritone) was very bad, down hill and
slippery, he had waited some time in the piazza for me, etc.; however I
was firm and said I would only give him one franc. Two other coachmen
who were standing near joined in the discussion and told him he was
quite wrong, that a franc was all he was entitled to. He instantly
plunged into an angry dispute with them, and in the meantime Mrs.
Cameron's door opened, so I put the franc on the cushion of the
carriage, he in a frenzy, telling me he wouldn't go away, but would stay
there with his carriage until I came out. That I told him he was at
perfect liberty to do, and went into the house. He and the others then
proceeded to abuse each other and make such a row that when I got up to
Mrs. Cameron's rooms she said she couldn't think what was going on in
the street, there was such a noise and violent quarrelling--so I told
her it was all me and my botta.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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