Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
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Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
interest, but there were some things he couldn't understand, "par
exemple son attitude dans la question--" Then as I didn't know what he
might be going to say, I interrupted, and said no one could point out
that gentleman as well as I, as I was Madame Waddington. He looked a
little uncomfortable, so I remarked, "Il diavolo non è tanto nero quant
è dipinto" (The devil is not so black as he is painted), to which he
replied, "Eh, no punto diavolo" (no devil)--was rather amused, and asked
me if I would introduce him to W. after dinner. We then, of course,
talked a little about France, and how very difficult the religious
question was. He asked me where I had learned Italian, so I told him how
many years we had lived in Rome when my brother was the last Minister
from the United States to the Vatican. Sulmona joined in the talk, and
we rather amused ourselves. Sulmona, of course, knew everybody, and
explained some of the people, including members of his own (Borghese)
family, who were very Black and uncompromising. Still, as I told him,
the younger generation is less narrow-minded, more modern. I don't think
they mean to cut themselves off from all participation in the nation's
history. After all, they are all Italians as well as Romans. The foreign
marriages, too, make a difference. I don't think the sons of English and
American mothers could settle down to that life of inaction and living
on the past which the Black Party means in Rome.
As soon as I could after dinner I got hold of W. (which was difficult,
as he was decidedly surrounded) and introduced him to my cardinal, whose
name I never got, and I went to recall myself to Princess Sulmona. We
had a nice talk first about her people--her father, Count Apponyi, was
Austrian Ambassador in Paris when Marshal MacMahon was President, and
their salon was very brilliant, everybody going to them; the official
world and the Faubourg St. Germain meeting, but not mingling. Then we
talked a little about Rome, and the future of the young generation just
growing up. Of course it is awfully difficult for families like Borghese
and Colonna who have been bound up in the old papal world, and given
popes to Italy, to break away from the traditions of centuries and go in
frankly for "Italia Unita." Do you remember what they used to tell us of
Prince Massimo? When some inquisitive woman asked if they really called
themselves Fabius Maximus, he replied that it had been a family name for
1,400 years.
The present Prince Massimo is one of the most zealous supporters of the
Pope. The great doors of his gloomy old palace have never been opened
since the King of Italy came to Rome. One can't help admiring such
absolute conviction and loyalty; but one wants more than that in these
days of progress to keep a country alive.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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