Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
We were rather tired when we got back to the hotel as the climbing was
stiff in some parts, and glad to rest a little before dinner. The
padrona came in and talked to us. It seemed funny to see an English
woman in that milieu with her brown hair quite smooth and plain and a
clean print dress. She said she liked her life, and the people of the
island. They were industrious, simple and easy-going. She talked a great
deal about the Sheridans, for whom she had of course the greatest
admiration, said one of the sons came often to Capri, and that his
cousin Norton had married a Capri fisher-girl. We had heard the story,
of course, and were much interested in all she told us. She said the
girl was lovely, an absolute peasant, had walked about with bare feet
like all the rest, but that she had been over to England, was taught
there all they could get into her head, and was quite changed, had two
children. I remember their telling us in Rome what a difficult process
that education was. She was willing and anxious to learn to read and
write, but her ambition and her capability of receiving instruction
stopped there--when they wanted to teach her a little history (not very
far back either) and the glories of the Sheridan name she was
recalcitrant, couldn't interest herself and dismissed the subject
saying, "ma sono morti tutti" (they are all dead). She always kept her
little house at Capri, in fact was there now, perhaps we should like to
see her. We said we should very much.
We had nice, clean comfortable rooms and made out our plan for the next
day. We didn't care about the Blue Grotto--we had seen it before, and
besides they told us that at this season of the year it would be almost
impossible, one must have a perfectly still sea as the entrance is not
easy--very low--and a big wave would swamp the boat. We heard the wind
getting up a little in the night and we woke the next morning to see a
grey, cloudy sky, little showers falling occasionally, and a fine gale,
sea rough, no little boats out, one or two fishing boats racing along
under well-reefed sails, anything but tempting for a three hours' sail
in an open boat. Mother looked decidedly nervous; however the matter was
taken out of our hands, for the boatmen appeared saying they would not
go out, which was rather a relief; we didn't mind staying. There was a
fair library in the house, books that visitors had left, so we hunted up
a history of Capri (Baedeker was soon exhausted), and got through our
morning pretty well, some reading aloud, the others knitting or working.
We had all taken some sort of work in our bags, various experiences of
small hotels on rainy days having taught us to provide our own
amusement.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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