Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
It cleared in the afternoon though the wind was still very high and we
set off--on donkeys this time--and mother in her chair, to the other
side of the island. Two or three girls, handsome enough in their bright
skirts, bare brown legs and thick braids of hair, came with us to take
charge of the donkeys. As we were going up a steep flight of steps
(which the donkeys did very well and deliberately) they began to tell us
about Mrs. Norton and said we should pass her house. It was amusing to
hear them talk of her wonderful luck in being married to this "bel
Inglese"; "adesso fa la signora sta in camera tutto il giorno--colle
mani bianche" ("Now she does the lady, sits in her room all day with
white hands"). We passed several houses rather better than the ordinary
fisherman's cottage and then came upon a nice little white house,
standing rather high, with a garden and gate, which they told us was
Mrs. Norton's. We stopped a moment at the gate, looking at the garden;
mother's bearers put her chair down and gave themselves a rest, and we
saw a lady appear very simply dressed in something dark, who came to the
gate and asked us in very nice English with a pretty accent if we would
come in and rest, as the day was hot and we had had a steep climb. We
heard all the fisher-girls giggling and saying "Eccola la Signora." We
were half ashamed to have been seen gaping in at her garden, but the
invitation was simply and cordially given, and we accepted. Her manner
to mother was quite pretty, respectful to the older lady. We went into
a pretty little sitting-room quite simply furnished, with books and
photographs about. She showed us pictures of all her family, her husband
(regretting extremely that he was not there), her mother-in-law, Mrs.
Norton, and her children. She seemed very proud of her son, said he was
at school in England and didn't care very much for Capri. I asked her if
she liked England, and though she said "very much," I thought I detected
a regret for her old home, though not perhaps her old life. Her face
quite lighted up when we said how much we admired her island with its
high cliffs and beautiful blue sea. I didn't find her as handsome as I
expected, but the eyes were fine and her smile charming. Her manner was
perfectly natural, she showed us very simply all she had, and was not in
the least curious about us--asked us no questions, was evidently
accustomed to seeing foreigners and tourists at Capri. We stayed about
half an hour, and then went on our way. She shook hands with us all, and
looked most smilingly at mother; couldn't quite understand her black
dress and white cap--said we mustn't let her do too much, "she is not so
young as you, la mamma."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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