The Tomb of Hadrian, or Castle of St. Angelo, as it has been called
since the famous vision of Gregory the Great, is a familiar object to
every stranger in Rome. It stands above the yellow Tiber facing the
ancient Aelian Bridge, now called also the Bridge of St. Angelo on the
main road to St. Peter’s and the Vatican. It is connected with the
latter by a subterranean passage built by Pope Alexander VI in 1500, and
used by his successors as a path of retreat to the fortress in times of
internal revolt or foreign attack. The great fortress prison, although
dismantled of the marble that once covered its stones, is still a most
imposing edifice and is second to none in the world in its historic
memories, replete with strange and terrible interest. It is an epitome
of Roman history, closely associated from the beginning of the Christian
era down to the fall of the temporal power of the Popes, with the storms
and struggles that have rent the Eternal City. Any account of Italian
prisons must thus centre about this grim old relic of the Cæsars,--“this
massive mausoleum, by turns a tomb, a fortress, a prison and a palace, a
chapel and a treasure-house; now threatening the liberty of Rome, now
defending its very existence; now the refuge of the Republic, now the
hiding place of the Popes; through war and peace, from the Imperial days
on through the Gothic and Mediæval epochs, down to the present hour
never ceasing to be a living part of the history of Rome.” Since 1890 it
has been used as barracks for a branch of the Italian army, but visitors
may yet see the apartments of the Popes and those horrible dungeons into
which, in former days, no ray of light could penetrate. Until the French
occupation of Rome, when doors were cut into them, they were entered
through holes in the vaulted ceiling. Through these the wretched
prisoners were let down into the fetid depths of these “sepulchres
without the peace of the dead.” In them languished Benvenuto Cellini,
the wizard Cagliostro, beautiful, unhappy Beatrice Cenci, and many
others famous in song and story.
The records of this fortress-prison are largely the history of early and
mediæval Rome, and in the severity of its punishments and the ruthless
cruelty of its methods it stands as the type “writ large” of the prisons
of Italy, for which, as it were, it set the pace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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