We had chosen Castel Gandolfo for our summer quarters and had spent
two delightful months in the Villa Brazzà, situated on the lower edge
of the town, which climbed up the gentle slope behind, and having for
ourselves the open view of all the Campagna below us, before. The house
did not look large from the road, but very little of it showed itself
to the road at all. When one had passed under the arched “portone,” one
found a great rambling residence with a long terraced wing stretching
down into the garden, and in the garden itself pavilions, grottoes,
terraces, all bowered in flowers and so artistically disposed that
every one seemed isolated and only approached by long winding walks
delightfully shady and green. Where the chief sitting-room opened
towards the garden there was a small terrace, completely shaded from
the morning sun, with a fountain so disposed that it fell all down one
wall like a waterfall, and round it clambered and waved the wreaths of
a hundred creepers, ivy and stephanotis and jessamine and maidenhair
fern, all wet and blooming in the gentle moisture of its spray. To
the left the wing, in which my own rooms were situated, ran far down,
affording shade and coolness; a stairway led up to its roof, where vast
beds of petunias gave out their sweet perfume and were visited every
evening at sunset by humming-bird moths, who fed on the honey in the
white and purple chalices till they could scarcely fly away.
The house had been full of guests through July and August and the
summer had been divinely bright and cool. Through it all I had looked,
day after day, over towards the Sabine Hills, so remote and mysterious
for all their nearness to Rome, and a great desire was upon me to
penetrate into those blue fastnesses. They had been friends—at a
distance—all my life, since I could remember anything, and probably
before that, for the big eastern window of the room where I was born
looked straight towards them, and doubtless their sun-smitten peaks
were the first outside objects my eyes ever beheld. They are our
Sibyls, in Rome. They reflect every change of sun and wind, and very
early I learnt to tell the signs of the coming weather which they
infallibly gave us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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