Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
windows of the inn, within an hour or two after our arrival; the corpse
laid on an open bier, the hands crossed, and ornamented with flowers,
and the monks and attendants all joining in a solemn chant. A bell was
also tolling in another quarter, the signal that a man just condemned to
the galleys was passing in procession through the town, as is customary.
"But let the stricken deer go weep,
The hart ungalled play."
The English dance and dress during an assize week, and the lively
Nissards, more naturally still, enjoy their fine climate, and elegant
town, without entering into the gloomy reflections which haunt the mind
of an Englishman on his arrival. The cafes and public walks were
swarming with company, and the whole place appeared to take its tone of
gaiety from the gaudy young officers, whose troops were quartered in the
extensive barracks; the peasants were dancing their grand round on the
quay, or fighting between jest and earnest with open hands; the native
dandies managed their green fans with the same adroitness as their fair
companions; the shops displayed every luxury and accommodation; and
every thing, in short, savoured of the habits of a continental
Cheltenham.
The Hotel des Etrangers, where we established ourselves, is somewhat
high in its charges, but proportionably good, and possesses a delightful
garden of orange-trees adjoining. After being kept awake by mosquitos,
which seem more prevalent than at Marseilles, and whose little angry
note of preparation had apprized us of an attack, we walked in the
morning to the citadel hill, whose solid masses of ruin had attracted
our notice on the first view of the town. This point affords the best
general idea of Nice and its vicinity, though in the month of May, it is
not attained without a roasting walk. The heat indeed was tremendous, as
may be expected in a triangular tongue of land only a few miles in
extent, and encircled by lofty mountains; and the mildness of the
climate in winter, as we were informed, bears a full proportion to its
oppressiveness in summer. Green peas are to be had all the year:
mulberries and gourds were already ripe, and every garden was a wood of
the finest orange and lemon-trees loaded with ripe fruit. The
thermometer too is seldom or never lower than 55 in the depth of winter.
At the foot of the citadel hill is a road blasted out of the solid rock,
running along the edge of the sea, and connecting Nice with its port;
along which we walked towards the afternoon. I should be inclined to
remark this spot, near which is an esplanade of good houses, as the most
sheltered and desirable quarter of Nice. The breeze, which had begun to
freshen, was just perceptible where we stood, though its effects in the
open sea were visible by the plunging of the waves under our feet; and
it appears hardly possible for any but a south or south-west wind to get
at this point. Whether or not the part of Nice north of the citadel be
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