Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819 — John Shaqi
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
seigneur_ by a cunning landlord. This trouble after all may be taken by
a servant, and need not subject the master to the necessity of entering
every inn like an angry terrier, with his bristles up and ready for
battle; and the settlement of preliminaries does not lead to any want of
attention on the part of the people of the inn.
We neglected this precaution at Essonne, where we breakfasted on leaving
Paris, and where accordingly we paid about double the charge which
Tortoni or the Cafe Hardy would have made. It appears, in truth, that at
the Croissant d'Or, as at the Emperor Joseph's memorable German inn,
"though eggs are not scarce, yet gentry are."
The distance from Paris to this place is about 24 miles: the road of
course excellent, as is uniformly the case in the route to Chalons; but
the only thing during the stage which remains on my recollection, is an
obelisk inscribed, "Dieu, le Roi, et les dames;" a melange perhaps
compounded in compliment to Louis XV. who greatly improved a part of
this road, which was once nearly impassable. Corbeil, a neat flourishing
town within half a mile of Essonne, and possessing large cotton
manufactories, derives some interest from the celebrated siege it
sustained during the war of the league. Two miles beyond Essonne we
remarked, at a short distance to the right, Chateau Moncey, once the
seat of the gay and brilliant Duke de Villeroi and his descendants; and
on a hill to the left, Chateau Coudray, the former residence of the
Prince de Chalot. Both the possessors of these estates were guillotined
during the reign of terror, and their places are filled by Marechal
Jourdan, and some _nouveau riche_, whose very name the peasants seemed
never to have heard, or to have forgotten from want of interest.
We found the Hotel de la Ville de Lyon at Fontainebleau a good inn, and
fair in its charges. The old palace, though not intrinsically worth a
visit in point of architecture, yet conveys one of those "sermons in
stones," in which the Fauxbourg de St. Germain so much abounds; and
presents also more pleasing recollections of Louis Quatorze (a prince
possessing many of the good points of the _bon Henri_) than the
bombastic personification of him as Jupiter Tonans, in the palace of
Versailles, which is on a par as a painting with Tom Thumb as a tragedy.
April 27.--To Fossard, eighteen miles: the first six through the forest,
just sufficiently sylvan to suffer by a comparison with that of Windsor.
At the end of two more miles we crossed the valley, in which is situated
the town of Moret, to which is attached a history equally curious, as
Anquetil observes, with that of the Iron Mask. The following is the
extract from the Duke de St. Simon's Memoirs, which he introduces as
relative to it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account