Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
It is as needless to apologize for devoting a whole chapter to local
circumstances connected with Madame de Sevigne's life, as it would be to
detail the well-known social virtues which have erected this amiable and
unpretending woman into a sort of household deity in the eyes of so
large a class of persons, while the Lauzuns, the Montespans, and other
gay and brilliant favourites of that period, are only recollected with
disgust.
CHAP. VI.
ORANGE--AVIGNON.
OUR road to La Palud lay along the rocky vale first discovered from the
heights above Chateau Grignan, which in fact is not so much a vale as a
high plateau of ground enclosed between hills, like many parts of
Castille. To the latter country, indeed, the Comtat Grignan bears a
striking resemblance in the characteristic features which prevail
through the greater part of it. The insulated grey rocks have forced
themselves through the starved soil, like projecting bones; the parched
fields are more full of pebbles than corn; and the stunted evergreen
oaks, with their diminutive tough leaves of a dingy grey, though well
enough adapted to the inhospitable ground in which they grow, present an
appearance quite repugnant to our English ideas of verdure and
vegetation. The immediate neighbourhood of Chateau Grignan, indeed,
seems tolerably fertile, but it is difficult nevertheless to conceive
from whence the adequate supplies for the Count's immense table were
procured, or how the feudal contributions of such a country could have
supported in earlier days the number of castles and towers, whose ruins
we saw on the summits of every detached rock. These, from their
resemblance to the "antiguas obras de Moros," which the muleteers used
to point out, presented another feature strongly reviving my Spanish
recollections. In the days of romance, this country must have been the
Utopia of Troubadours, where each might in the compass of a short walk
have taken morning draught, breakfast, nooning, dinner, and supper, at
the strong holds of different barons. The first of these fortalices,
called Chamaret le Maigre, presents a striking landmark from the town of
Grignan; but, on a nearer approach, consists of little more than a tall
slender tower upon an insulated rock; the rest is in ruins. At a short
distance beyond this spot stands Montsegur, a little old fortified town
upon a hill, which, from its name and appearance, may have been one of
those cradles of civil liberty, where the "bon homme Jacques" first
found refuge from his haughty feudal oppressors. A ruin of a more lordly
description close to it, is called, as we understood, the Chateau
Beaume: but the number of less important ruins, which occurred in this
day's journey, is too great to admit of a particular description. A turn
to the right between a couple of commanding heights, brought us out of
this barren country into the wide and fertile plain of the Rhone, and
under the walls of St. Paul de Trois Chateaux, the ancient Augusta
Tricastinorum.
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